Bolts for terminals?

[jmilch]

Been seein alot of installs that use bolts for box terminal.

I thought the best method for a ported enclosure was just drilling holes and running the wire from the amp directly to the terminals on the sub.

Is the bolt method ok? Seems like it would actually increase resistance in the line.

[tacomabanga1986]

it helps if u need to take out the box, if u just run it str8 to amp u would have to cut ur speaker wires everytime u took the box out as with bolts and ring terminals u can pritty much do anything u want to to send power to ur subs

and most people that do it like to compete so they can change there ohm loads easier than takeing subs out of the box each time

and no longer than they use of allthread i dont think it has much resistance

[zayres29]

the most efficient way is direct leads from the subwoofer but not many companies offer this using bolts is just fine im sure copper or aluminum is better but id be willing to bet there isnt a noticeable difference

[S15_Silvia]

A bolt is a thick piece of solid metal- it may be an alloy, but if that bugs you a lot, hit up eBay for some copper bolts

[jmilch]

What I mean was directly from the amp terminal to the speaker terminal. That would not involve cutting any wires when the sub is removed.

I can see the advantage of using bolts over pre made speaker terminals made for boxes. I also see how it would help with the ohm load arrangement.

Thanks for the info

[skittlesRgood]

What I mean was directly from the amp terminal to the speaker terminal. That would not involve cutting any wires when the sub is removed.

I can see the advantage of using bolts over pre made speaker terminals made for boxes. I also see how it would help with the ohm load arrangement.

Thanks for the info

that is exactly why I do it. so you dont have to take the subs out if you want to change nominal load.

and you are correct, you wouldnt have to cut wires if you did direct leads. if you take the box out, you would take the subs out 1st rite? lol. and if you want to change ohm load you just leave enough slack to be able to get the subs out of the box and disconnect them.

[slow240sx]

I just did it on my last install. I measured the speaker wire resistance without cutting it and then after using the allthread bolt. Vmeter didn't show any real difference plus, I can change ohm loads easier without having to mess with amp. A hole through box with silicone works too, both ways just have different advantages

[jmilch]

I just did it on my last install. I measured the speaker wire resistance without cutting it and then after using the allthread bolt. Vmeter didn't show any real difference plus, I can change ohm loads easier without having to mess with amp. A hole through box with silicone works too, both ways just have different advantages

I generally just makes runs to each coil, then label them outside the box. I just measured also, and I found no change in resistance. I used stainless bolts, but I doubt that makes a difference.

You do leave the lines exposed with bolts, but that shouldnt be a big deal.

[missionman]

I have 1/4 inch pure copper threaded (binding posts) bolts installed in my set up with 2 pure copper nuts on both posts to sandwich the terminal connection outside the box. down4sounds Johny put them on my box free of charge instead of the not so great terminal cups they offer.

the bolts are FAR FAR better by all standards especially for less resistance for power delivery and simple robust connections that do not come off even if you move your giant box. If you want clean constant power you MUST go with binding posts, minimum 1/4 copper. I think they make one size larger commonly.

3/8 or 1/2 or something.

Ive heard the saying it keeps your enclosure uniform for smooth air mass but its probably negligible on small boxes and more true to massive installations with numerous subs on 20K power or something.

In that case Ive heard of people blaming terminal cup cutouts causing high pressure unbalanced resonance that tore cones but i duno. 

My posts actually threaded in the wood initially but the birch wood threading doesn't last after taking them apart a few times.

Still I use copper washers too and everything seals 100%. 2 tiny 1/4 holes in my box towards the rear lower corner. Cords lay on the ground when sub faced out or up.

Ill never use terminal cups now. Seems unnecessary after using clean tight binding posts. 

I recommend

 

Mine look like this but mine are 1/4 inch bolts and about 2 inches long and each hex head bolt has 1 copper washer, lock washer and 2 nuts. so 4 nuts total.

 https://www.amazon.com/Foyoram-M3-M16-Copper-Hexagonal-Conductive/dp/B0CJBV2VQT/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_1_1/142-1548593-0631613?pd_rd_w=kAFJi&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=K9KG9F4ATVKFH979CFJ7&pd_rd_wg=pj8QK&pd_rd_r=c3f99f71-70c6-4a46-9a05-b289f9286ee4&pd_rd_i=B0CJBV2VQT&th=1

[meade916]

On 5/29/2025 at 10:06 PM, missionman said:

I have 1/4 inch pure copper threaded (binding posts) bolts installed in my set up with 2 pure copper nuts on both posts to sandwich the terminal connection outside the box. down4sounds Johny put them on my box free of charge instead of the not so great terminal cups they offer.

the bolts are FAR FAR better by all standards especially for less resistance for power delivery and simple robust connections that do not come off even if you move your giant box. If you want clean constant power you MUST go with binding posts, minimum 1/4 copper. I think they make one size larger commonly.

3/8 or 1/2 or something.

Ive heard the saying it keeps your enclosure uniform for smooth air mass but its probably negligible on small boxes and more true to massive installations with numerous subs on 20K power or something.

In that case Ive heard of people blaming terminal cup cutouts causing high pressure unbalanced resonance that tore cones but i duno. 

My posts actually threaded in the wood initially but the birch wood threading doesn't last after taking them apart a few times.

Still I use copper washers too and everything seals 100%. 2 tiny 1/4 holes in my box towards the rear lower corner. Cords lay on the ground when sub faced out or up.

Ill never use terminal cups now. Seems unnecessary after using clean tight binding posts. 

I recommend

 

Mine look like this but mine are 1/4 inch bolts and about 2 inches long and each hex head bolt has 1 copper washer, lock washer and 2 nuts. so 4 nuts total.

 https://www.amazon.com/Foyoram-M3-M16-Copper-Hexagonal-Conductive/dp/B0CJBV2VQT/ref=pd_ci_mcx_di_int_sccai_cn_d_sccl_1_1/142-1548593-0631613?pd_rd_w=kAFJi&content-id=amzn1.sym.751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_p=751acc83-5c05-42d0-a15e-303622651e1e&pf_rd_r=K9KG9F4ATVKFH979CFJ7&pd_rd_wg=pj8QK&pd_rd_r=c3f99f71-70c6-4a46-9a05-b289f9286ee4&pd_rd_i=B0CJBV2VQT&th=1

the difference between a quality cup and a bolt with a nut on it is the potential for that bolt to turn on the inside (with the wire on it) if you ever mess with it at all from the outside.  We make cups that don't do that.  https://wccaraudio.com/smd-tcr-1-speaker-terminal/?searchid=0&search_query=tcr .  Oh and that whole thing about "terminal cup cutouts causing high pressure unbalanced resonance that tore cones" is absolute bullshit.  The nutty things that wannabee car audio guys say is so mind boggling...don't pay any attention to that nonsense. Use a bolt if you want to use a bolt. Use a cup if you want to use a cup. Your subs won't care at all.