HatersGonnaHate Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I'd go with the all black... In my opinion, if it was my car, I would like some color differentiation up front, and a grey car with black accents goes well together. My name is AdamThis is my Civic Build.7" Samsung Tab 2Kenwood KDC-X896Clarion EQS746Sundown X-15DC 3.5k @2ohmHatersGonnaHate's 02 Civic UBLELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/FitDon's Jeep Grand Cherokee Rebuild N8ball2013 - i think you'd stick your dick in a blender if it told you it was 40 wtih two kids your age. lol srp365 - If posting were picking up bitches, I'd be going home single tonight looks like tony montana sneezed in your car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 I'd go with the all black... In my opinion, if it was my car, I would like some color differentiation up front, and a grey car with black accents goes well together. Yeah that would be clean. especially since he has black rims 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 The more I look at it, the more I like the thought of black. I'm thinking that I'm gonna be forced, by my own will, to get the second set of projectors (quad set up) and then do the shroud for that as well to go all black. The blinker side, or side marker, I'm going to tint. then it would make it all blacked out, but not really, and everything is fully functional! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Ok so I couldn't stand it. I said I was most likely done with updates before my vacation but I couldn't help myself. I was looking at builds today in a number of different places and my mind started running on my own build. I'm not 100% sure how I ended up here, but I did. So here's where I'm at! I got a hold of an Si trunk lid a few months ago that I tried to cover up with Carbon Fiber Vinyl. It was my first attempt and it failed. Most of it went ok but bottom line is that it failed. Too much for one person to do by themselves, let alone one person doing it by himself on the first time ever. That being said, my full intention is to still use it, get it covered now that I'm a little bit better at it, and get it on the car. So this saves me some time. Also saves me some build stress. So I got the old amp mock ups out from last year, and the trunk lid and made a layout that I've basically been thinking about all day long! Here it is. So after looking at this, I decided I love the way it looks. It's gonna pop you in the face as soon as you open the trunk. It's gonna look good! So I decided to start building it up. I may, of course, need to go back and do some stuff later and probably re do all that I've done tonight but I've got a great idea now of how I want it. Started taping off where the basic line is going to be. There's a foam surround that goes here that seals off the lid from leaking when it gets water on the car, i.e. rain, carwash, whatever. So I don't want to go much past this point. Got out my foam board so i could make a platform for the amps to sit on. Well sort of, this is to mimic a platform. I'll probably go back and make this out of wood and glue it on with some dowels etc. Next I just taped the hell out of it. I thought I was going to just fiberglass over this but then after it was all done, I decided it would be best for me and the work to be done, if I made the platform out of wood and attached it, then glassed over it. So that's probably what I'll do. The little cubby you see at the top is where the trunk latching mechanism goes. So this is the basic layout of the amps. I didn't really want them straight. I think though after looking at them a bit more on the pics, I'll change the radius and try to get it closer to the trunk radius there on the bottom. So I guess if I do that it'll probably end up straighter then I want it to. So we'll see what happens. So that's about it. Not much but believe it or not, that will allow me to sleep tonight. That's it for now. Probably for sure the last update for a couple of weeks. I'm probably leaving for San Francisco tomorrow night, or Saturday morning, and then I'm leaving for my river trip on Monday. So there won't be much if any time to work on this stuff. I'm very excited for what's in store when I get back. You should be too. Lots to come and lots to come quickly, I hope! Thanks for tuning in as always! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 So after thinking about it a little bit last night, and moving stuff around this morning, I've decided to change it just a touch. I decided the two amps up there really was too much to they eye. I thought what could I put up there that would be big, but not overkill! Then it hit me! LRx 4.1K! One amp, large size, perfect for that! Original Now Then I got to thinking about the rest of the install. What am I gonna do with the trunk area now. How much room do I have for the enclosure, the amps, etc. Here's that and the idea: Recall that we have this on the back seat, or up against it. While it's going to change just a touch, it won't be much. The depth is still gonna be the same. So I laid the two sub amps down on the floor, and looked. And I thought, ya know, I could put the other amp in there as well. The mid bass amp, LRx 2.9, is the same exact size as the sub amps, LRx 1.1k. So they would cosmetically look good together in a pyramid form. Like so! My only question then would be, where do I put the LRx 2.4 which is the rear fill amp? Ah ha!! I still want to balance out the weight in the trunk, meaning I don't really wanna stack the two batteries on one side. The processor is going to not offer much in the way of weight to balance it out. So I've been trying to figure out a way to move that processor and go back to the original plan on the batteries in each corner cubby of the trunk. So now I'll put the LRx 2.4, rear fill amp, and the Audison Bit One Processor in the drawer I had originally planned to put the LRx 4.1k and LRx 2.4 in. Spreads it out more, the processor is easy to get to, and it all works out. I love it. Now I need some help from the enclosure boys! I need some confirmation actually. According to the Hertz Website and their specs, here the air space desired by these subs and their specs for "performance vented" enclosures is at 1.34 cu ft per sub. That's tuned at 40hz per the port they've provided. Now taking into account what little knowledge I have of vented enclosures, and how much research I do, here's what I found the other day and used it here while figuring out enclosures for my truck. Source: Audioque.com So try to follow along. I have a wedge box going in. This will allow it to sit completely flush against my component board on the back of the seat. With the 3rd amp in on the floor, measured to give me an even surround like the other amps, I have 17 1/2". In the picture it shows a lot deeper but that's cause I measured to the back of the seat. I had to subtract from the measurement because of the component panel, and the depth between the back seat and the top cross bar. It's 3". So my measurements go like this: Top measurement 9" and bottom measurement is 17 1/2". If I take those to make one measurement for my depth and go like this (17 1/2 - 9 = 8 1/2") Now I can't bring back the 17 1/2" 8 1/2" and extend the 9" 8 1/2" cause I'll be in the exact same spot. So I divide the 8 1/2" in half and I get 4 1/4". Now I add that to 9" and subtract that from 17 1/2" and get a total depth of 13 1/4". Get all that. I've also got 41" wide and 16" tall to work with. So that gives me an overall measurement of 13 1/4"D x 16"T x 41" W. Take away the thickness of the wood, it's 11 3/4" D x 14 1/2" T x 39 1/2" W. That gives me a total of 3.89 cu ft to work with. Now according to the audioque website, woofer displacement and port area are approx 18% of the total area of displacement. So if I take that into account (3.89 cu ft x .82 (100 - 18 = 82) then that gives me net air space of 3.19 cu ft total. Now with the pass through that I'm doing, I need to take that into account as well. The pass through is 6" W x 11" T x 13 1/4" D (same as the box depth we figured out above) which gives me .51 cu ft. So now I take that from the net area we figured out above, 3.19 cu ft - .51 cu ft = 2.68 cu ft. If you divide that by 2 that gives me 1.37 cu ft of air space per sub. My port area is, again according to the site, 2.68 cu ft x 16" = 42.88 sq inches. For the vented port I want, I take the 42.88 sq inches and divide it by the height of the enclosure (11 3/4) and that gives me a 2.96" wide port. So my port would be 11 3/4" tall x 2.96" wide x 18" deep. According to the site, again, 18" long port would roughly give me a tuning of 40hz. So again my enclosure, if I did this right, would be: 11 3/4" Deep x 14 1/2" Tall x 39 1/2" Wide with a port tuned to 40 hz of: 11 3/4" tall x 2.96" wide x 18" deep Did everyone get that? What do you all think about that? Is it correct? Opinions on all of it please. Thanks for tuning in! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxsonnyxz Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 Well to put it like this, i can see why you commented on my picture quality And you dont see amps in the trunk lid every day, great build log! Soo detailed.. STD Passat Build 151db+STD Omega BuildMitsubishi Colt Build - Alpine|Focal|PeerlessHome Stereo BuildSmall Tang Band build - 4" fullrangeBox for 4 8"My Saab 9000 Build- I'd be very happy if you cared to check out the logs and give feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
numatik Posted July 28, 2011 Report Share Posted July 28, 2011 I think you should get that box dept deeper, especially if its 3.89 net before displacement is the only amuunt of room after the amp pyramid. Have you thought to possibly mount the amps on a beauty panel behind the box, and trim it around the top and sides od the trunk, do you get what im saying? It would be clean. Just an idea. I do like the pyramid in the floor, it just seems to take up to much space. Im sure theres a way to squeeze everything in and still even have a little bit of trunk space for misc stuff. keep up the pics! Gary 'Numatik' Eberle West Sacramento, California Vehicle build log (1) 'Aayla' Numatik's one and only, bodydropped pasted the doors Chevy S-20 Ext-Ext cab. This project ended after a horrible horrible motorcycle accident. There are so many mods it would fill an entire page in my sig. Check it out if you have A LOT of time to kill. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/39785-numatiks-doored-s-20-bodydropped-on-doors-ext-ext-cab-10-subs-full-frame-build/?hl=%20numatik#39;s Vehicle build log (2) 'Snow White' Daily/showstopper 2004 Chevy Silverado Lays on 22s soon for 26s to run a beefy tire on 4s (4) 5gal tanks, (3)AZOB2 pumps, Slam digital stealth two speed valves with 16 solenoids, Slam SS bags all around, ART upper and lower arms, KP Components 6-link, KP Components watts link, Panther juice 6 22s, Spikes EVERYWHERE. 3,600WRMS total, (5) Kicker amps, (2) L7 15s under raised back seats, 15" screen molded to dash, 36 speakers total all Mb Quartz and Fosgate. Fiberglass console with removable face plates and arm rests, flushed speakers, lots of toggle switches, Playstation 2, rear view camera, Suede and leather seats, suede headliner, Dakota Digital air gauges, voltage gauges, and current draw gauges. (2) XS Power 4800 batteries, Whole truck is flat black and white and the ENTIRE truck is fully pin striped by TJ Pagano here in Sacramento. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/123328-numatiks-bagged-2004-silverado/ "What doesn't kill you makes you stronger. I am proof" - Numatik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Well I can put one of those three amps up in the drawer amp rack and figure something else out with the processor. I have a whole rack of components and wiring behind the sub box. So there's no way to put it back there. I'll figure something out. According to the web site, Hertz Audio, I only need 1.23 cu ft per sub which equals out to 2.46 cu ft for both. So I should be well within the realm of specs on these. Remember, this is not a bass pounding car. This is supposed to be more toward an sq type build. I'll probably build the box, and then listen to it and go from there. That's how it's done right? Trial and error. I'm back from vacation now, so we'll see if I can get anything done on the car this week. I'm home all week with my kids, but there's lots to do around here. Plus my truck needs work on it. We're taking it camping next weekend, not upcoming but the following, and I'll be towing a 26' travle trailer with it. SO I need to make sure it's running well before I go anywhere with it. I'll post more pics when I get some. Should be something this week. Thanks for the info and suggestions. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Hmm. Well I was trying to upload my sub enclosure mock up from Google Sketch up but I can't seem to figure out how to do it. Oh well! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Ok folks, I'm about 99% on a major major change in this build. I'm just trying to figure it out and then I'll make my decision as to whether it's worth it to me or not. First off I'm planning to take my: Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD Pioneer Bluetooth Module Pioneer HD Tuner Module Sarotech aBigs Media Player And sell them off. Why would i do this? Well because, with the exception of the Bluetooth I think, they can all be replaced with an Ipad2 BABY!!! I'm honestly so close to pulling the trigger on this one, I can't even tell you. Everyone knows that the Soundman.com has been doing these for a long time. I've found one other civic with it, but it's done in a vertical stance, which I'm not fond of. I can do a horizontal stance on it, but I would loose the vent in that dash bezel. That's not a big deal to me really, as in theory, it should blow more air out of the other three. I'm not concerned about that. What I am concerned about is steering wheel control retain ability if possible, digital signal to the Bit One which I think is possible via parts from Soundman.com, and making it look good which I'm a perfectionist at so I think that will work. I also need to be able to slide it in from the top vs the side like most others do, because of the way the dash is made, it's not going to slide in from the side. So that will be an issue possibly. I'll be doing some research on it and decide what I'm going to do about it. I also need to be able to run a video signal from the Ipad to the rear screens. I think I've got a solution for that as well, IYWR, I only have one pioneer video monitor at the moment cause the other is broken. I'll address that after this. Today I'm getting wood and will try to get some work done on the car. I'll be posting up some stuff when I can. UNTIL THEN, Please give me your comments, concerns, suggestions, ideas, or whatever else. I'm very serious about this and would like to see if anyone has any experience with it etc. Thanks for tuning in guys! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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