Skullz Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 How much of the screw came out before stripping the t-nut pins in the back? If it happened to come out far enough to use a hacksaw behind the basket that's an option otherwise it will be a real pain to do. Quote 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayhuh? Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 Bolt cutters. Quote Blown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 What about these? Think they could "bite" the head off the screw? http://www.chicksaddlery.com/page/CDS/PROD/2700/EN272?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bdata%2Bfeed Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyfromthe407 Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 What about these? Think they could "bite" the head off the screw? http://www.chicksaddlery.com/page/CDS/PROD/2700/EN272?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google%2Bdata%2Bfeed Like i said earlier bro, i think your 1/0 cutters would do the job cleanly. If you have some. But i would think anything cheap would work. Besides well scissors. hell , handheld garden sheers MIGHT do it. Depending on how thick of a screw you used. Quote Current 4 10"s System! 1/0 Power Wire All Around + Big 3 - $140 Rockford Fosgate T2500-1BD - MSRP $1800 (4) Memphis M3 10" Subwoofers 1600watts $300ea. = $1200 XS D6500 $245.65 PIONEER AVH-P5200DVD 7" Head Unit = $430 Soundstream SC-6T Component 6.5" FRONT $60 Pioneer TS-A1673R 6.5" REAR $85 A Bangin system! = PRICELESS! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gowerryan Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 if u can pull it try a hack saw or dremel be real carful though that is only if u can pull it out some though A hack saw around the cone of your sub. This guy is BRILLIANT. You could try drilling it..but even that is still kinda iffy. If anything id use a dremal with a round diamond blade to cleanly slice it off. You wanna use as small as you can though...I wouldn't trust myself doing it...but this seems tough D: What I used were my 1/0 cutters and it just cut the #10 screw like it was a piece of 4ga. But i cant imagine it was good for my cutters. heyy not everybody has a dremel if u go slow take your time and be careful it can work and not hit the surrond Quote 95 toyota corolla 1.8 dohc 5 speed system in planing stages right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 It happens a lot with with I use a cats paw anpull up on it then unscrew it depends on how much slack u have one time I had to cut the bolt with a sawzal between the basket an box it would come out a in or so then just spin so I had enough room to squeeze the sawzall blade in it. Use 1an a half or bigger to start the t nuts by hand in the future Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatBox Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 man ur screwed lol hack saw blade like mentioned if u can lift the sub and hack at the screw from under rubber gasket drill it out, but lift or put pressure against the head of the screw so it doesnt just spin another thing, drill a little bigger hole into the basket besides the head of the screw so u can rotate the sub and then the head of the screw will go thru the hole u drilled. only thing its prob gonna mess up the edge of ur basket alittle but u prob wont be able to see it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 man ur screwed lol hack saw blade like mentioned if u can lift the sub and hack at the screw from under rubber gasket drill it out, but lift or put pressure against the head of the screw so it doesnt just spin another thing, drill a little bigger hole into the basket besides the head of the screw so u can rotate the sub and then the head of the screw will go thru the hole u drilled. only thing its prob gonna mess up the edge of ur basket alittle but u prob wont be able to see it I like the extra drilled hole idea. I'm gonna try to dremel first, then do the hole. It will be covered by the gasket anyway. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 I would try as someone else mentioned and use bolt cutters. If that doesnt work get a saws all and a SMALL blade made for cutting metal. If you can take all the other screws out and see if you can pull the subwoofer out of the enclosure a little. If you can put the saw blade underneath the lip of the landing zone for the surround and cut SLOWLY. It should cut the screw in half and you can pull the sub out. Luckily i didnt have this happen to me but when i put my SMD in my box, the damn t-nuts would fall out of the wood and at the bottom of the box so i had to take the sub in and out 5 times before i got pissed and walked away and my dad did it in 2 minutes Just see if you have enough room underneath the lip of the basket to get bolt cutters or a small saw blade under there. I would not take the saw on the area where the surround is because if the tip of the blade hits the edge of the surrounds landing zone it will kick the blade back and i guarantee you that you will slice your surround in the process. Quote 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatBox Posted August 22, 2011 Report Share Posted August 22, 2011 forgot to mention to do it carefully but thats a given it would hurt me more to drill into the surround than into my finger lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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