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I made this thread so can use it as a preference with car audio. Feel free to add more info to anything other than these ones.

like when would you have to add a extra battery?

when would you need to do the big 3?

when would you need a bigger alternator?

tunning

Also this is for tips and trick soo can save you some money

Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX

And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported :lol2:

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It's not really a "when" for those that you state, you can do the big three, a 2nd battery, or nice upgraded and not have to do a alt upgrade. It's all based off stock specs and what your build will be. I do like the idea of this thread if it where to expand to its fullist.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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rule #1; If you smell smoke, turn it off!

masterbation is free, and even saves you money.sorry but someone had to say it

sorry, Jimmy...beat you to it (no pun intended)

LOLDON'T get a wife. Best advice I never got, and now it's too late <_<

My build: 12" DCON in a dorm room.

New/current build: 8" woofer, custom amplifier block, fiberglassed speaker pods

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rule #1; If you smell smoke, turn it off!

Lol ya, here's another, dont buy xplods :P

Also if you hear a loud thumbing, smacking noise and see your cone going crazy, turn it down or youll rip the surround

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Port Area:

14-16in^2 per ft^3 using a slot port.

9-12in^2 per ft^3 using an aero port.

Box Scpecifications:

10" Subwoofer - 1ft^3

12" Subwoofer - 1.5ft^3

15" Subwoofer - 3ft^3

18" Subwoofer - 6ft^3

Generally spoken 1,000wrms seems to be the average point in which you look to upgrade stock electrical.

Your enclosure is arguably the most important aspect of your stereo system. (Sub stage)

Acoustical energy is free, learn to use it.

1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d

Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk

On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, &#x27;Ray&#x27; said:

Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not.

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I made this thread so can use it as a preference with car audio. Feel free to add more info to anything other than these ones.

like when would you have to add a extra battery?

when would you need to do the big 3?

when would you need a bigger alternator?

tunning

rules of thumb are dumb depends on the cars stock charging capabilities.

rule #1; If you smell smoke, turn it off!

Lol ya, here's another, dont buy xplods :P

Also if you hear a loud thumbing, smacking noise and see your cone going crazy, turn it down or youll rip the surround

Oki would beg to differ on the xplods

Rule #3: Dont buy prefab boxes.

not a fan of prefab but some company do make decent ones

Port Area:

14-16in^2 per ft^3 using a slot port.

9-12in^2 per ft^3 using an aero port.

Box Scpecifications:

10" Subwoofer - 1ft^3

12" Subwoofer - 1.5ft^3

15" Subwoofer - 3ft^3

18" Subwoofer - 6ft^3

Generally spoken 1,000wrms seems to be the average point in which you look to upgrade stock electrical.

Your enclosure is arguably the most important aspect of your stereo system. (Sub stage)

Acoustical energy is free, learn to use it.

ha good luck with those guidelines

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Prefab boxes are fine if you know how to combat the box noise that they make cause of being certain shapes.

Squares and cubes generally make up prefabs and they tend to be the worst shapes to make unless you add polyfill or a layer of cotton/ dacron batting.

01 Ford focus ZX3

Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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