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Issues when replacing newer GM truck alternator?


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I believe it can also be fixed with an externally regulated alt. Not sure on that one tho.

I have sent multiple e-mail back and forth with Chris over at Missing Link Audio aka MLA and they have a module for the newer Chevys that keeps voltage between 14.7-15.2 is what he told me. May be the only solution if your running one alt and don't want any codes and lights on the dash.

UnderLok get that MLA in and give a review :good:

I'm hoping that the externally regulated alts will help... But who knows

It's a guy on YouTube that has a MLA but he also has a dual alt kit, but his voltage stays 14.7-14.8. I believe his name is hulbert87. I'm going to ask him how he like his on his 07 Tahoe.

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

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dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

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i have a 2010, and am looking to switch out the alt. so all information is greatly appreciated!

I think it helping a lot of us at this point :woot:

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

2 Sundown Zv3 18 high rolled sexiness

dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

Mtx Q(not sure if I'm going to use)

Knu wire and RCA's

Bass Head Bands

Oh and a few pairs of Jordan's

62c64997.jpg

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I was also told replacing the battery upfront can cause the alt to burn up because of some censor? Not trying to jack ur thread I have a 2011

Never heard of that one, but these newer trucks have a ground clamp that reads the ground off the main battery. So you have to upgrade that to 0gauge for the clamp to pick up the increased flow or some B.S. Thanks Chevy.

Is it ok to have a battery in the extra tray runing in parallel to the main battery if only the main batt has its ground running through that ground clamp?

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I don't know if anybody has stated this yet but you could send your BCM in to PCM4Less and have them possibly reprogram it so you don't have the charging problem.That's my plan in the future when I upgrade again and have to use that stock location.I know they can program the BCM because I'm getting ready to send mine in to have it tweaked a little for the wheels and the tire sensor light and to pick up a little more torque and horsepower.

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Whats the mla module cost? Just got done emailing them earlyer

I got quoted 209 or something like that. Don't know about install.

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

2 Sundown Zv3 18 high rolled sexiness

dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

Mtx Q(not sure if I'm going to use)

Knu wire and RCA's

Bass Head Bands

Oh and a few pairs of Jordan's

62c64997.jpg

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**EDIT: One side note for you guys that either are or are thinking of going with an HO or upgraded agm batt there are a couple things you should know.

1) If you get an AGM battery(s) then you HAVE TO GET A CHARGER! Not optional... The PCM controlled truck will NOT top off your battery.

2) It is suggested that you run your negatives through the inductive pickup which is on your factory ground (the ring), but I don't do it and it works fine.

3) Dual alts work off of the PCM (I do it), but you get shit charging.

4) At start you will see 15.2-15.9 (keep that 15.9 in mind it will fry an amp if it can't run 14v (aka 16v charge).

5) An MLA is the only solution in existence to use your PCM and charge correctly

Lastly I really wish someone that knows would explain to me why in the fuck people aren't being told this shit when they buy an alternator. What is the reason behind not running AD's? Sure you get a charge warning, but is there any other reason not to? I don't know of one...

I don't know if anybody has stated this yet but you could send your BCM in to PCM4Less and have them possibly reprogram it so you don't have the charging problem.That's my plan in the future when I upgrade again and have to use that stock location.I know they can program the BCM because I'm getting ready to send mine in to have it tweaked a little for the wheels and the tire sensor light and to pick up a little more torque and horsepower.

Already looked into that, they can't turn it off or so I was told.

Whats the mla module cost? Just got done emailing them earlyer

I got quoted 209 or something like that. Don't know about install.

You just have to tap in before the PCM (either at the fuse box on the way out to the PCM or along the way).

The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I would assume this would work and I plan on getting the VCM from MechMan but would this eliminate the issue? I don't care about any ghetto light I'll just disconnect it. I'm worried about like you said the charging issues or anything else associated.

Thanks for your help guys! These trucks are not simple by any means with the sensors they utilize...

Vcm will not work for the newer trucks.

Best bet is to run three separate h/o alts and keep the stock for the truck

It won't work at all? So purchasing the VCM is a waste? I just hate the thought of having to waste a perfectly good spot where I can has moar power!

Nope, already looked into that as soon as I bought the truck.

I know it sucks, but slap a quad kit an run three big alts that's a good amount of power

Sure it will work if you use an AD alt...

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