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Issues when replacing newer GM truck alternator?


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So I've been told and somewhat seen with other peoples builds issues with replacing the OEM alternator in newer GM trucks, that the aftermarket will not communicate correctly or some bs. I plan on Doing a quad alt setup in an 07 Suburban but am skeptical about replacing the OEM due to what people say.

If anyone has any input on this I appreciate the feedback!

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I started a thread because I have the same question about my 2009 Tahoe.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/129909-pcm-controlled-ho-alt-experience/

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

2 Sundown Zv3 18 high rolled sexiness

dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

Mtx Q(not sure if I'm going to use)

Knu wire and RCA's

Bass Head Bands

Oh and a few pairs of Jordan's

62c64997.jpg

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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

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I was also told replacing the battery upfront can cause the alt to burn up because of some censor? Not trying to jack ur thread I have a 2011

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The way I see it you have a few options...

1) Run all older style AD alts and deal with a charge warning on the dash

- Not sure if there are any other negatives to this but we all run volt meters anyways.

2) Run one alt for your truck and the rest to the system

- You loose out on one alt, but most run the truck + mid/high off that one

3) Run all of them off the PCM

- This is how I run and voltage ranges from 12.8-15.9 (start), but generally in the high 13's

4) Get an MLA

3+4 is how I went, but the MLA isn't in yet. One day I'll get off my ass and get it in there.

*Note: If you have a tow button or a tow package of any kind you can turn off economy mode (economy mode charges low or stops charging to save fuel). When you see your voltage drop into the mid to low 13's or less hit the tow button and wait a minute, it should jump back up or turning on the headlights in some models does it as well. Yes I know your lights are always on... Turning the switch matters ;)

I'm thinking of just doing the same thing 3and4 as I just found out they make a MLA for the newer Tahoes. One thing about mine is that it doesn't have v4 mode I believe because it's a 4.8L.BTW does the HO alt running off the PCM throw any codes?

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

2 Sundown Zv3 18 high rolled sexiness

dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

Mtx Q(not sure if I'm going to use)

Knu wire and RCA's

Bass Head Bands

Oh and a few pairs of Jordan's

62c64997.jpg

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I was also told replacing the battery upfront can cause the alt to burn up because of some censor? Not trying to jack ur thread I have a 2011

Never heard of that one, but these newer trucks have a ground clamp that reads the ground off the main battery. So you have to upgrade that to 0gauge for the clamp to pick up the increased flow or some B.S. Thanks Chevy.

2009 Tahoe

2000bc Cresendo POWA Need 3500

2 Sundown Zv3 18 high rolled sexiness

dual alt bracket with Singer alt(coming soon)

Mtx Q(not sure if I'm going to use)

Knu wire and RCA's

Bass Head Bands

Oh and a few pairs of Jordan's

62c64997.jpg

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