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2k1 EM2 Civic >> PaCiFiKbAllA'z Update >>Wolfram Audio 4500.1 >>Singer 250A Alt>>Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 FULLY LOADED!!


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On 1/30/2012 at 9:27 AM, PaCiFiKbAllA said:

Just throwin' up some pics of my newest enclosure...will be done later today...its been 2 1/2 weeks going so far...and all i gotta say is this one is gonna be a banger! Will only be running a single 12" (DD 9512h D2) off a DD M3a. 3 molded ports running up through the rear deck...thanks to Louie at Mikes Sound Solution...that guy is awesome! Anyways, here are some pics (will post the final ones tomorrow afternoon):

 

**Re-uploaded pics (04/16/18) so timeline might be out of sequence with my thread

 

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cherry

Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX

And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported :lol2:

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On ‎5‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 1:43 AM, PaCiFiKbAllA said:

Thanks man!  I rarely ever see anyone that has beat in their EM2, ever.  1f604.png

The Singer Alt is a direct bolt in and he provides spacers/bushings to compensate for the gap in between the upper bolt/upper mount of the alternator.  I had to use a few spacers of my own to close the gap tight, but its 99% bolt in.  And the harness provided by Singer bypasses the ELD.  So you will not have to worry about it.  A few years ago I bought a DC Power Alt and the charge stud was WAY off from where the OEM was.  And they didn't provide the proper spacer for it either.  As soon as I returned it, they removed it from their website.  I was going to go Mechman, but Singer was more affordable at the time.  I own a Singer 160A OEM Alt as a backup and my current one in the car is a Singer 250A Hairpin style (benched at 286A).  

Post up some pics of your EM2...I was an original member on civicforums.com/7thgencivic.com back when they first started...many moons ago 1f604.png

Here's a couple of pics for you to see. Punch 1000x1 running the outer 2 subs at 1ohm and a Punch 1000x5 running the mids highs and center sub at 2ohms. Have a bass knob on the 1000x1 so I can dial down the bass when I want to. Mechman 250, if I remember right, that has been great so far. XS Power battery of course that has been amazing!

RF 1.jpg

RF 2.JPG

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1 hour ago, aew93 said:

Here's a couple of pics for you to see. Punch 1000x1 running the outer 2 subs at 1ohm and a Punch 1000x5 running the mids highs and center sub at 2ohms. Have a bass knob on the 1000x1 so I can dial down the bass when I want to. Mechman 250, if I remember right, that has been great so far. XS Power battery of course that has been amazing!

RF 1.jpg

RF 2.JPG

I have two of those p3 12s and their great! 

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On 6/7/2018 at 8:51 PM, aew93 said:

Here's a couple of pics for you to see. Punch 1000x1 running the outer 2 subs at 1ohm and a Punch 1000x5 running the mids highs and center sub at 2ohms. Have a bass knob on the 1000x1 so I can dial down the bass when I want to. Mechman 250, if I remember right, that has been great so far. XS Power battery of course that has been amazing!

RF 1.jpg

RF 2.JPG

That’s clean man...4 door?  I bet those Fosgates get down too. ?

1 x Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 Fully Loaded

1 x Wolfram W-4500.1

2 x XS Power D5100's

250A Singer Alternator

2.67 Cubes @ 29hz

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In a predick-a-mint.  Was trying to diagnose an issue that just developed.  The front breaker is tripping every now and again.  I tightened the front battery terminals a bit more, checked grounds...all checked out.  So, I flipped the circuit on, started the car, and the RPMS’s would bog down for s second, come back up to normal idling RPM’s, then back down....like it wasn’t getting a charge from the alternator...seems like it was pulling straight from the battery.  Needless to say, it tripped after the second bog...then after it tripped, the car idled normal, no issues.  The last thing I did to my car was fuck around behind the head unit, but I don’t know if something back there would cause it to  trip.

 

Charging levels were in the mid 13’s, nowhere near 14.xx, so I believe I have a blown fuse somewhere.  Gonna check the under dash fuse then check the big 80 amp fuse....after I nap...I’ll report later.

1 x Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 Fully Loaded

1 x Wolfram W-4500.1

2 x XS Power D5100's

250A Singer Alternator

2.67 Cubes @ 29hz

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I couldnt find in your BL where you mentioned the current capability of you circuit breaker, but, you can bypass that with a fuse for testing... That would rule out if its the breaker or something else somewhere drawing a short.  
Do you have a clamp DMM?  You can begin measuring current draw at different points in the system to see where the current is going.  You can also test voltage drop at different locations to see if theres an excessive current (short) causing a voltage drop.

Best of luck during testing.  Let us know what you come up with.  Tuned in for diagnosis.

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

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6 hours ago, WalledSonic said:

I couldnt find in your BL where you mentioned the current capability of you circuit breaker, but, you can bypass that with a fuse for testing... That would rule out if its the breaker or something else somewhere drawing a short.  
Do you have a clamp DMM?  You can begin measuring current draw at different points in the system to see where the current is going.  You can also test voltage drop at different locations to see if theres an excessive current (short) causing a voltage drop.

Best of luck during testing.  Let us know what you come up with.  Tuned in for diagnosis.

What’s going on man.  My breaker in the front is 300 Amps (Stinger).  I recorded a video showing the fluctuation in voltage.  I left all breakers off, turned the car on, charging levels were fine.  So I turned the front breaker on, charging fine, normal voltage levels in the 14’s.  Well with the rear battery a bit lower at 11.xx volts, I reset the rear breaker.  Now the charging levels are down to 13.1-13.5.  

However, if you look at the video, voltage dips down for a good 20-30 seconds, then gradually comes back up slowly, it seems as when it is coming back up near 13.5v...at around 1:11, voltage starts increasing quickly and gets up to 13.9, then it trips the breaker.

Its a weird issue...the fluctuation in voltage is leading me to believe it’s the alternator....BUT...I haven’t tried to install a fuse yet as I don’t have time until tomorrow morning.  Right now, both rear and front breakers are disconnected until I can fuse it in the front and test again.  Thoughts?

 

 

1 x Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 Fully Loaded

1 x Wolfram W-4500.1

2 x XS Power D5100's

250A Singer Alternator

2.67 Cubes @ 29hz

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The rear battery tests at 11.xx volts?  It is trying to recharge your rear battery and as the voltage rises the current exceeds the ability of the circuit breaker's ability.  Again, I suspect the circuit breaker.  You might try to charge the secondary battery outside of the car to get it at above 12v..should be about 12.8ish volts.

 

The circuit breakers sound like a great idea, with the ability to disconnect current with the flick of the switch and not have to replace fuses...but every time the break the circuit they become less able to handle current.  Each time it breaks the circuit the amount of current it can handle is reduced and after a small number of breaks it becomes useless.  The heat tripped breakers do this.  The hall effect type do not.  I can't find hall effect type breakers that are suitable for high current in a car environment.

Orion XTR amplifiers

Skar subs

 

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Just now, Crazy 8s Drums said:

The rear battery tests at 11.xx volts?  It is trying to recharge your rear battery and as the voltage rises the current exceeds the ability of the circuit breaker's ability.  Again, I suspect the circuit breaker.  You might try to charge the secondary battery outside of the car to get it at above 12v..should be about 12.8ish volts.

 

The circuit breakers sound like a great idea, with the ability to disconnect current with the flick of the switch and not have to replace fuses...but every time the break the circuit they become less able to handle current.  Each time it breaks the circuit the amount of current it can handle is reduced and after a small number of breaks it becomes useless.  The heat tripped breakers do this.  The hall effect type do not.  I can't find hall effect type breakers that are suitable for high current in a car environment.

Exactly my thought, the breakers are gonna come out and imma throw my fuse blocks in.  With the front breaker disconnected, the rear wasn’t getting any juice...so I’ll charge it up over the weekend and toss it back in Sunday.

Thanks for the input guys!

1 x Fi Audio SP4 V2 12" D2 Fully Loaded

1 x Wolfram W-4500.1

2 x XS Power D5100's

250A Singer Alternator

2.67 Cubes @ 29hz

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