OrzechNJ Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 since you are talkin about the "shops" I tell u my example.. so I ordered Singer alt for my 2000 accord and I went to the shop and asked how much would it cost to put the new alt in .. and I told him the pulley on the new alt is smaller than the stock one and I wasnt sure it i need to change a belt.. and he said:"so We just take the pulley from old one and put it on new one.." and i said that I dont wanna do that.. and he started to laugh real bad after I told him that smaller pulley makes the alt more effective on lower RPMs.. I didnt say anythin and just went out.. lol + he said that hes workin there for over 10 years... sometimes Loud is NOT pretty Sounds like its safe to go ahead and bend that ass over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobobass Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. not entirely true. It's all in the design of the sub. It's a balence between motor force and the weight of the soft parts. You could easily have an 18 perform better than a 10 if the motor was designed fir the higher moving mass. 2000 Subaru outback 2.5l Head Unit: Pioneer deh 4300ub front stage: tbd subwoofer: Stock Fi Q 18" amp: Audio que 1200d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
412 CVX Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Okay, a properly designed enclosure would help. But it still doesn't change the fact that the 18" cone has a lot more mass and weight compared to smaller cones. It won't be able to "change" from say 80hz to 65hz anywhere near as quickly as a 10" would, simply because of the momentum of the heavier cone that the voice coil has to fight. Oh, and I love the two sighs I got, from people who obviously blindly disagree with me while obviously not having the knowledge to back themselves up... Lemme know when you stop talking theory. mmmkay Just say no to Ground Pounder Customs. My temp system build log More box buildssome cars do over 170db with one sub, so clearly my two 12"s can do that in my car, with my knowledge too! look out bitches! I'm with captain stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knockin'hoe97 Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? 2 things 1. That is theory - a properly designed enclosure will allow it to hit higher frequencies just fine. 2. People will bigger subs do that because they are loud enough that they need to start investing in a really good front stage. The midbass drivers add to the akward 80-250hz range that is often times a dead spot in many systems. Not sure about you - but I don't want that sound coming from my subs. It would make it sound SO muddy regardless of the driver size (yes, tried it with an 8 inch sub with a fiberglass cone and a 10s, 12s and 15 inch sub with a normal cones. Same results) Okay, a properly designed enclosure would help. But it still doesn't change the fact that the 18" cone has a lot more mass and weight compared to smaller cones. It won't be able to "change" from say 80hz to 65hz anywhere near as quickly as a 10" would, simply because of the momentum of the heavier cone that the voice coil has to fight. Oh, and I love the two sighs I got, from people who obviously blindly disagree with me while obviously not having the knowledge to back themselves up... ok i got a question? even if the 18" didnt change as quick would it be noticable to ear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r0llinlacs Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? 2 things 1. That is theory - a properly designed enclosure will allow it to hit higher frequencies just fine. 2. People will bigger subs do that because they are loud enough that they need to start investing in a really good front stage. The midbass drivers add to the akward 80-250hz range that is often times a dead spot in many systems. Not sure about you - but I don't want that sound coming from my subs. It would make it sound SO muddy regardless of the driver size (yes, tried it with an 8 inch sub with a fiberglass cone and a 10s, 12s and 15 inch sub with a normal cones. Same results) Okay, a properly designed enclosure would help. But it still doesn't change the fact that the 18" cone has a lot more mass and weight compared to smaller cones. It won't be able to "change" from say 80hz to 65hz anywhere near as quickly as a 10" would, simply because of the momentum of the heavier cone that the voice coil has to fight. Oh, and I love the two sighs I got, from people who obviously blindly disagree with me while obviously not having the knowledge to back themselves up... ok i got a question? even if the 18" didnt change as quick would it be noticable to ear? Depending on the type of music you listen to and the type of head unit, box, and amp, then yes, it can be very noticeable. And yes, depending on the force of the voice coil, and pull of the magnet, an 18" could sound as good, as long as that force is equal to or greater than the extra air pressure resistance because of the extra cone area. But let's face it, when is an 18" actually scaled to the size of a lesser sized sub? Unless it is, it won't have the ability to produce the same type of sound on a larger scale. It's a totally different sub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 I likre how you ignored my 'real world' example. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 This article helps explain why cone size is not really a factor in a speakers transient response. http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/WooferSpeed.pdf F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noobtastic14 Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 This article helps explain why cone size is not really a factor in a speakers transient response. http://www.adireaudi...WooferSpeed.pdf oh shits gettin real now.... -Drew I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 come on, how much heavier is an 18" paper cone than a 10" paper cone? or a 10" versus a 12" cone. you think a freaking 40+lb motor is going to have a hard time throwing those extra grams around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobobass Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It seems nobody here knows anything about sound quality. I see why home audiophiles laugh at the car audio scene. It is physically impossible for any 18" sub to produce any frequency and especially transient frequencies, as precise as any sub with a cone smaller than 18". It's physics. There's no way around it. And even more importantly, the difference in sound quality between any two different subs will be totally dependent on the signal it receives. IE: An 18" on a clean amp can sound better than a 10" on a dirty amp. Give them both a clean amp, and every time the 10" will sound cleaner, tighter, and more precise. Isn't that why most people with larger subs use larger midbass woofers? Or at least a bunch of mid sized ones? 2 things 1. That is theory - a properly designed enclosure will allow it to hit higher frequencies just fine. 2. People will bigger subs do that because they are loud enough that they need to start investing in a really good front stage. The midbass drivers add to the akward 80-250hz range that is often times a dead spot in many systems. Not sure about you - but I don't want that sound coming from my subs. It would make it sound SO muddy regardless of the driver size (yes, tried it with an 8 inch sub with a fiberglass cone and a 10s, 12s and 15 inch sub with a normal cones. Same results) Okay, a properly designed enclosure would help. But it still doesn't change the fact that the 18" cone has a lot more mass and weight compared to smaller cones. It won't be able to "change" from say 80hz to 65hz anywhere near as quickly as a 10" would, simply because of the momentum of the heavier cone that the voice coil has to fight. Oh, and I love the two sighs I got, from people who obviously blindly disagree with me while obviously not having the knowledge to back themselves up... ok i got a question? even if the 18" didnt change as quick would it be noticable to ear? Depending on the type of music you listen to and the type of head unit, box, and amp, then yes, it can be very noticeable. And yes, depending on the force of the voice coil, and pull of the magnet, an 18" could sound as good, as long as that force is equal to or greater than the extra air pressure resistance because of the extra cone area. But let's face it, when is an 18" actually scaled to the size of a lesser sized sub? Unless it is, it won't have the ability to produce the same type of sound on a larger scale. It's a totally different sub. you still don't get it. And the mass of the cone has almost no effect in sound quality. The suspension of almost any sub will matter far more than the small weight difference between a 10" cone to a 18" cone. Why might a sub sound muddy? It was designed wrong and the suspension is to stiff. Not because the cone is larger. It makes almost no difference. 2000 Subaru outback 2.5l Head Unit: Pioneer deh 4300ub front stage: tbd subwoofer: Stock Fi Q 18" amp: Audio que 1200d Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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