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hey guys i am about the order

-(2) VVX-12s

-(1) SK-1500.1D Amplifier

And i wanted to know what fuse should i get for the batterry? i had my fuse go out once and i dont want the same thing to happen when i get my new setup

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

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What ever fuse and wire skar recommends.

VM-1

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Hertz HSK 165XL

Arc Audio KS 300.2

Linear Power 1002 Full Mods

Fi Audio Q 10s

Sundown Audio Scv 3000

Big 3

XS Power D5100 Juice Box 20AH

Singer Alternator

Sky High Wire

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You fuse according to wire size.

ok what you you run according to wire size?

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

flakosignature1-1_zps0751010a.png

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I run fuses to accommodate the load presented to the wire. First make sure the wire can handle that much power, I'd use at least 2 gauge for your amp. I'd run a 150 amp up front, and another 150 amp in the back. If you are also running a four channel, then I'd run 0 gauge and run the front fuse the same size as the combined fusing between both amps. Use a distribution block in the back and run the appropriate sized fuses for each amp in the back.

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I run fuses to accommodate the load presented to the wire. First make sure the wire can handle that much power, I'd use at least 2 gauge for your amp. I'd run a 150 amp up front, and another 150 amp in the back. If you are also running a four channel, then I'd run 0 gauge and run the front fuse the same size as the combined fusing between both amps. Use a distribution block in the back and run the appropriate sized fuses for each amp in the back.

thank you sir i will keep this in mind for when i get them

2010 Mazda 3

*Rebuild Time*

Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's
Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500
Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2

Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear

Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1

Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated

Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors)

Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4

Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3



The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11

flakosignature1-1_zps0751010a.png

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I run fuses to accommodate the load presented to the wire. First make sure the wire can handle that much power, I'd use at least 2 gauge for your amp. I'd run a 150 amp up front, and another 150 amp in the back. If you are also running a four channel, then I'd run 0 gauge and run the front fuse the same size as the combined fusing between both amps. Use a distribution block in the back and run the appropriate sized fuses for each amp in the back.

This is the correct answer!

Sure you can fuse according to wire size. Lets make an example

You have a skar 1500 watt rms amp, typically it draws around 150amps of current under max load.

You have 1/0 gauge OFC wiring which is capable of 300+ amps of current, so most fuse the wire at 300 amps.

Now if you happen to have a short or something blows, its going to take a lot more current to blow that 300amp fuse. By the added current needed to blow the 300amp fuse a Fire could potential break out and burn your car to the ground!

Now if you fuse that 1/0gauge OFC wire at the actual current draw needed and used by the amp at lets say 150amps, and you use a 150amp fuse in the wire if a short would happen that 150amp fuse will blow that much quicker due to it not needing a huge current demand to blow it.

Both ways are "Correct", but only 1 way is safer!

Using a bigger fuse than what is needed does NOTHING but make your wiring not as safe! So using a 300amp fuse when your not even drawing 300amps of current is not going to make your system hit harder, or give you less voltage drop. Everything will be sounding and performing just the same as a 150amp fuse.

Also it is wise to note that just because the fuse is lets say 150amp, 200amp, 300amp, does not mean it will blow exactly at its said amperage. A fuse will take much larger amounts of current for short periods of times before they blow.

And all fuses are not created the same Some brands will blow sooner than other, even 2 of the same brand and size fuses can vary and not blow at the same time.

 

 

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