Hotdog Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) Couple of ideas that I have had in my head and thought I should throw them on the table before I forget. 1. When it comes to making connection from the leads of the sub-woofer to the basket terminals. Would it not be cool to have a lead with a magnetic tip on it so if you were re coning a sub-woofer you don't have to solder the connection just a quick connect with a magnet and your done. May not be practical in your every day sub-woofer but for competition grade woofers when you have to re cone in the field this would be great. 2. Bluetooth Would it be practical to create a Bluetooth device that you could plug right into the back of your head unit and send the signal wireless to a Bluetooth device on the amp. With it being a digital signal there would be no noise in it you would just need a digital to analog converter Bluetooth device on the amp end. Edited May 8, 2012 by Hotdog Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrace Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Both ideas sound great to me, but I am no engineer and have no clue if it's pratical and will even work.? But none the less good ideas. Quote 145.9@40hz 145.3@34hz big 3 X2 group 34 Deka Group 31 All 0/1 awg jl meta wire Alpine CDA 7894 Orion HCCA D5000 2 AQ HDC312's Crunch gpv1100.2 (for 6.5"s only) AQ pro audio 6.5" - 3 sets AQ supertweeters - 2 sets 2000 Slamry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook426 Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 The blue tooth idea would be flipping sweet... No longer have to think about where to run wires in comparison to power wires... And possibly better quality of signal Quote Next time she tries to punch you in the stomach, whip your wiener out and chase her around. Show her who's boss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 The bluetooth might work well. Create a device that you plug your front/rear/sub into, and it bluetooths it to another device that you place in the back, which runs 3 short RCA's to the amps. Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) If any of you have interesting Idea's put them out there. Just imagine running the lead of the sub woofer through the hole on this magnet then all you would have to do is put it right on the terminal plate. Would be plenty strong enough to hold. of course it would come from the factory with the center hole filled with solder so the lead is secure. Edited May 8, 2012 by Hotdog Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted May 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 The bluetooth might work well. Create a device that you plug your front/rear/sub into, and it bluetooths it to another device that you place in the back, which runs 3 short RCA's to the amps. The only thing you would require for this to work would be power ground and remote which you could wire right into the amps connections. Same on the radio end that way there is signal at both ends when radio is on. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassrace Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 With direct leads no need to worry about solder. But 9 times out of 10 subs dont have direct leads and your idea sounds like a nifty one for competitors that dont have time to solder. Quote 145.9@40hz 145.3@34hz big 3 X2 group 34 Deka Group 31 All 0/1 awg jl meta wire Alpine CDA 7894 Orion HCCA D5000 2 AQ HDC312's Crunch gpv1100.2 (for 6.5"s only) AQ pro audio 6.5" - 3 sets AQ supertweeters - 2 sets 2000 Slamry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yirgacheffe Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 1. When it comes to making connection from the leads of the sub-woofer to the basket terminals.Would it not be cool to have a lead with a magnetic tip on it so if you were re coning a sub-woofer you don't have to solder the connection just a quick connect with a magnet and your done. May not be practical in your every day sub-woofer but for competition grade woofers when you have to re cone in the field this would be great. I would not want to have magnets except the motor of the speaker itself. Having direct connect leads works fine for me, and if one need it they can easily be extended. Quote Watts up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tebo Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Bluetooth idea is badass! i hope to see that soon lol Quote 04 dodge dakota ext cab 4x4 excessive amperage 300 amp alt with MONSTER stud =)sundown z v3 15 in a 4th order on aq2200sundown 100.4 2 way active...2 Prv audio 6mb200 & 2 re XXX tweetersdeka intimidatorkenwood x396big 3 1/0 knu wire back to deka intimidator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HHR Ed Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 Its good you are thinking of ideas. The main drawbacks are these. Magnetic woofer connections - Not a solid connection, current and voltage transfer capabilities would be on the low end. Susceptible to vibration and high power may induce arcing at connection which would create heat at connector. Bluetooth amp signal input. - Bluetooth is basically a radio transmitter and receiver. Because of this, interference from outside sources is possible, signal to noise ratio is diminished from standard hard lines, signal voltage is limited, and frequency response is limited. Quote Ed Lester ShowtimeSPL Host Showtime Electronics Video MarketingMy old Build Loghttp://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl 5 time dB Drag Finalist Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way. Loudest score ever = 171dB 2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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