john253a Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 i also agree with 1" but its easier to use 3/4 unless you replace the inner to 1"mdf (but if your good with a router then its all easy)
alaskanzx5 Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 well 1" for the plexiglass back, wouldnt require any extra work just instead of placing a 3/4"mdf board on the back side of the box you use 1" plexi. no router needed to screw and glue a peice of plexi to a box. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
mttornquist Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Posted May 30, 2012 I played around with it more and here is what I came up with: The new models: Then I added some color. Imagine it being a SKAR sub rather than the JL, it was all I could find in the sketchup warehouse. Through the window: Then painted: Lemme know what you you guys think and if this will work okay! My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
john253a Posted May 31, 2012 Report Posted May 31, 2012 Only in the phone at moment so can't run and numbers But bring the box back to 19.75 so the overall dia. Is 26.5" to lift the net if the box That should bring the port down to low 15sq" per/ft Also try to off set the sub away from port opening,
john253a Posted May 31, 2012 Report Posted May 31, 2012 Another thing with the way I filled out Torres you can put down 1 for baffle and not have to work out the volume But you do have to add on volume for the plexiglas resess Once you cal. That up and the bracing if need be you can put a minus number in bracing area if required
mttornquist Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Posted May 31, 2012 I already had the displacement of the bracing and baffle subtracted as well as the cutout for the plexi added in that last calculation. I wasn't sure how the calculator would handle the 2nd baffle as it doesn't go all the way across the box so i just took care of it myself. Adding the extra half inch brings the tuning down to 33.18 Hz and the port to 15.25 in^2 per foot. By off setting the sub do you mean moving it as close to the non-port wall as possible? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
john253a Posted May 31, 2012 Report Posted May 31, 2012 Yes but not as far as possible just a bit more accross
mttornquist Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Posted May 31, 2012 how much room do I need to leave between the edge of the sub cutout and the bracing in that corner of the box? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
alaskanzx5 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Posted May 31, 2012 move it over 1-2" and it should be good. although i dont see much point in moving it over. if you want the window to see the sub then moving it over will just hide more of the sub from being veiwed. unless you also more the window over to match the subs location. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
mttornquist Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Posted May 31, 2012 Will it really affect output that much if I leave the sub centered or if I move it over a couple of inches? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
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