mttornquist Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 So I'm getting ready to start my first build and am planning on putting a single Skar IVX-10 in the trunk in a ported box. I designed a box in torres and sketchup and just wanted you guys to look over it and make sure everything looks good. I am planning it to be front facing in the trunk and have the trunk sealed off. The seats will be folded down unless I am driving with more than one passenger. Here is the sub's specs from skar's website: Sealed 0.65 ft^3 Ported @ 35hz 1.0-1.4 ft^3 Displacement 0.10 ft^3 Depth 6.5" Outside Diameter 11" Cut out 9-1/4" Here is what I got from torres: And here are some pictures of my sketchup drawing: Thanks for looking over my stuff guys! And be sure to let me know if I need to change anything up. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
Guest Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 needs WAY more port area. look at the bottom right at these two figures. Port Area Range and Port Area. make sure the p.a number is within the p.a.r edit: this is done by making the port width and height bigger.
mttornquist Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Posted May 29, 2012 needs WAY more port area. look at the bottom right at these two figures. Port Area Range and Port Area. make sure the p.a number is within the p.a.r edit: this is done by making the port width and height bigger. Ok, I wasn't sure if I was supposed to use the port length that I entered or the Actual Port Length that the program spits out. So the port should be the full 6.4 inches long rather than the 2.9 inches it is now correct? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
Guest Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 well no. for port area, you need to change the width and the height of the port. not the length. the length just helps lower tuning if you make it longer. and i'd stick to using .25" increments, or .125" if you're quite good at wood working. edit: this is all in the calc itself by the way
mttornquist Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Posted May 30, 2012 Ok so I had another go at the box design and I think I did it right this time. However I was thinking of having the back made of plexiglass so that you could see the woofer from the trunk, and that would not work with this design. That is why I was trying to design a box with 0 ports walls in common, I think it would look better from inside the car and the trunk. Here's what I got: And here are my models: The problem is that I cannot put plexiglass for the back, so could someone give me some pointers on how to design a different box where the port would not cover the entire back? Is there any way I could build the box with 0 port walls in common and have it tuned to around 33Hz? EDIT: Or should I find the resonate frequency of the cabin and tune to that? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
john253a Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 its not a finished version nor perfect due to time restraints as im about to head out and only had 10minutes , but you get the point box is 26.5x 10x 15.5(h) the port is at the most idd like to go in height to width ratio, but with some better measurements to work from youll get there
Joe X Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 Your port is thin, the width to height ratio of the port window must be kept 9:1 If you don't mind a little deeper box here is some other suggestion: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 35 Hz Vb = 1.3 ft^3 External Height = 12 in External Width = 25 in External Depth = 14 in Port Width = 1 3/4 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front & Back = 25 x 12 Left & Right Sides = 12 1/2 x 10 1/2 Top & Bottom = 25 x 12 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 10 3/4 x 10 1/2 Extension = 12 3/4 x 10 1/2 Let me know any questions.
mttornquist Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Posted May 30, 2012 Which of those two designs would give me better output? I see the t-line is tuned to around 37Hz while the L ported box is 35 so I assume the T-line would be louder? Also, I listen to mostly pop music. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/
john253a Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 here's something a bit closer and usable, my last drawing was no were near right but only a reference for you to look at and close measurements to work off and refine by the way its not a t-line box its a standard ported box, you only to do them this way is, if the deepth of the sub does not fit with standard port, and in your case you want a plexi rear
alaskanzx5 Posted May 30, 2012 Report Posted May 30, 2012 i vote for post number 6, would like nice qith that plexiglass back. being able to see the port design. you should use some fairly thick plexi though, 1" thick and up. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
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