n8ball2013 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 i think you misread my friend. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 i think you misread my friend. I kinda figured... Mikey,..... try reading, and not just reading the words, but, understanding,.... that goes with ANY post. Theres so much great info on this site, with the best in the world at your finger tips. Take it all in bro,... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighossf150 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 budget is 600ish for te subs. not sure the amp. hopefully getting a HO alt. jeep has a stock 136amp alt so prob a 270. and a D6500 under the hood, and 2 D3100 in the rear. and a bit of 1/0 mids and highs are not very pretty at all haha well just say that. . . and i could do that, i just wanted to be able to move as much air as possible. so i was just thoinking cone area and only plannin on about 2.5k why so much electrical for only 2500 watts? Thats damn near what Im going to be running with 6000watts and I spent around 2k Used to have a loud truck 2009 Corvette Z06, H/C/I, 150 shot, g force tune, 730rwhp/690rwtq 2013 F-150 limited, MPT Tune, leveled on 35"s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Bates Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 a) i do alot of playing with the car sitting, so having the reserve will be nice my electrical is currently stock and voltage is gone to shit with only like 600 watts lol c) for future upgrades and if i switch cars or anything, i'll always have it. . . what do you think the minimun i could run would be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 I can garentee your voltage is shit because you haven't done the Big 3. I have a 600 watt mono block and a 300 watt 4 channel, and I never even go below 12v, and I have a 60A alt and a battery smaller than a D975. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 alts that are like 70 amps output like 35 at idle. adding more batteries will just put a bigger strain on your alt. discharged batteries will take more amperage to charge, leaving less reserve (or none depending on how big it is). you'd just be fucking up your alt more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 You could get (4) Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofers for $660 shipped. With 2000 watts and the correct enclosure design, low frequency should not be an issue. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 alts that are like 70 amps output like 35 at idle. adding more batteries will just put a bigger strain on your alt. discharged batteries will take more amperage to charge, leaving less reserve (or none depending on how big it is). you'd just be fucking up your alt more Yep, and then when hot... Eeesh...please build some sorta electrical... Please... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lord huggington Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Don't ever buy a sub for low end until you model it in WINISD. Subs can be so different that one could be +6dB @ 30 Hz over a bigger sub that's seeing double the power. Obsidian Audio 15 in 3.75 @ 32 and 18 in 6 @ 32 in red after standard cabin gain. 20 Hz & 30 Hz peaks. 2.5" voice coil 600W RMS for $189. Too bad they don't ship to Canada, would there be any way around that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Don't ever buy a sub for low end until you model it in WINISD. Subs can be so different that one could be +6dB @ 30 Hz over a bigger sub that's seeing double the power. Obsidian Audio 15 in 3.75 @ 32 and 18 in 6 @ 32 in red after standard cabin gain. 20 Hz & 30 Hz peaks. 2.5" voice coil 600W RMS for $189. Too bad they don't ship to Canada, would there be any way around that? Winsid is pretty much useless in car audio. That graph is going to chance significantly based on the car, box sizes, port locations, sub locations. Trunk hatch, open cab, everything will change that. And kranny lol ya, like I said he must not have done Big3, I don't have sever voltage issues and I am a few hundred watts short of 1k watts and that's what I am running as far as electrical goes. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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