Kyblack76 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 If you sell as is, someone will get it working right for nothing more than the price of a recone and some new screws. Heck, if you sold it I'd buy it, but shipping from the other side of the country would be a bear. I think you can fix it. No problem if you have access to a drill press. Bro!?? The threads are pulled out!?!? New screws with 12oz of locktite won't fix shit!?!? You have never seen a stripped thread before Shit, sell them to this guy and let him replace the screws. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
TheBetterMethod Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 ^Do you have a problem? 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3 The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/ 140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash! REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified
Karkov Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
TheBetterMethod Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 ^lol 2005 Subaru Outback Wagon Pioneer 9400BH Fi Q 15, SAZ1500dV3 The first build>>> http://www.stevemead...-outback-build/ 140.9 @ 36hz Sealed on dash! REBUILT!!! 2 Fi Q 15s, 2 SAZ1500dv3 146.9 @ 39hz dBDRA certified
SnowDrifter Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Posted October 18, 2013 Looks like things might not be as bad as I originally thought. Pulled the basket off without cutting the cone. Needle nose pliers, just backed out the screws bit by bit. Here's one of them. that metal I thought I saw between the threads, looks like it was the threads of the screw itself. Got mashed up pretty good with all the banging And one of the screw holes in the motor. Looks like it's intact. And a fair bit of unclaimed threads. Longer screws + threadlocker = solution? Finally got my answer to a question too. How similar these are to a mayhem motor. Visually similar, yes. Pole piece and top plate are different though Damage to the coil. Still usable though. See the yellow spider on the bottom? And the black spider on top? I'm wondering about this. Top spider has a few small tears in it and the yellow one is intact. Everyone I ask says that it's just the color, but I'm not so sure. Seems like it's more saturated with glue or something. And possibly more durable And the bottom of my dustcap almost looks like metal?? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
tacomaguy1 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 could be salvageable.....but no way to get the screws back in all the way Not that I see at least Team Flex Issues
SnowDrifter Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Posted October 18, 2013 Anyone know if it's possible to repair something like this without cutting the cone? If not... I have some choices to make. 1. Repair these and keep using them. I have recones laying around. But I was wanting to play with some larger subs in the future anyway. 2. Repair/keep and buy new subs. This is the one I most want to do. I've never seen another pair of these and they are beast subs for sure. Has me thinking they might be kind of rare and I want to hold on to them. Only issue with that is I'd be fronting the full cost of new drivers 3. Sell as is with recones see #2 4. Repair and sell. See #2 5. Recone these to 15s or 18s. Another tempting option. But figure it will be in the neighborhood of $225 per sub to do this Cost of recone, cost of basket, shipping for both, plus misc supplies like glue, shims, clamps, and solder. By the time I do this to both subs I'm approaching the cost of buying new drivers anyway. And these are still 3" coils. I'd be concerned about thermal stability ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
mrd6 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I think this is a sign you need to start your wall soon.... My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL
Wicks Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I've never rebuilt a sub before, is it common to use Philips-head screws to hold the basket? I'd think that you wouldn't be able to properly torque those screws down.... This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
omg_spoon Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 +1 for starting wall build 98 Mustang GTSinger 3202 12" Incriminator Death Penalties1 SAZ-2500dv22 D3100,1 D34002 Crescendo CZ-65SAX-100.2Door panels by Diablo Kustomz
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