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If you sell as is, someone will get it working right for nothing more than the price of a recone and some new screws.

Heck, if you sold it I'd buy it, but shipping from the other side of the country would be a bear.

I think you can fix it. No problem if you have access to a drill press.

Bro!?? The threads are pulled out!?!? New screws with 12oz of locktite won't fix shit!?!? You have never seen a stripped thread before

Shit, sell them to this guy and let him replace the screws.

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:popcorn:

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Looks like things might not be as bad as I originally thought. Pulled the basket off without cutting the cone. Needle nose pliers, just backed out the screws bit by bit.

Here's one of them. that metal I thought I saw between the threads, looks like it was the threads of the screw itself. Got mashed up pretty good with all the banging

FOT33FE_zps36a9d234.jpg

And one of the screw holes in the motor. Looks like it's intact. And a fair bit of unclaimed threads. Longer screws + threadlocker = solution?

WP_20131018_017_zps369a1a2b.jpg

Finally got my answer to a question too. How similar these are to a mayhem motor. Visually similar, yes. Pole piece and top plate are different though

WP_20131018_014_zps5b6230bb.jpg

WP_20131018_015_zps023f9f3d.jpg

Damage to the coil. Still usable though. See the yellow spider on the bottom?

WP_20131018_018_zpsbc9d2783.jpg

And the black spider on top? I'm wondering about this. Top spider has a few small tears in it and the yellow one is intact. Everyone I ask says that it's just the color, but I'm not so sure. Seems like it's more saturated with glue or something. And possibly more durable

WP_20131018_019_zps27d5b145.jpg

And the bottom of my dustcap almost looks like metal??

WP_20131018_020_zps872cc902.jpg

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Anyone know if it's possible to repair something like this without cutting the cone?

If not... I have some choices to make.

1. Repair these and keep using them. I have recones laying around. But I was wanting to play with some larger subs in the future anyway.

2. Repair/keep and buy new subs. This is the one I most want to do. I've never seen another pair of these and they are beast subs for sure. Has me thinking they might be kind of rare and I want to hold on to them. Only issue with that is I'd be fronting the full cost of new drivers

3. Sell as is with recones see #2

4. Repair and sell. See #2

5. Recone these to 15s or 18s. Another tempting option. But figure it will be in the neighborhood of $225 per sub to do this Cost of recone, cost of basket, shipping for both, plus misc supplies like glue, shims, clamps, and solder. By the time I do this to both subs I'm approaching the cost of buying new drivers anyway. And these are still 3" coils. I'd be concerned about thermal stability

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I've never rebuilt a sub before, is it common to use Philips-head screws to hold the basket?

I'd think that you wouldn't be able to properly torque those screws down....

:shrug:

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2004 BMW M3
Mechman 280A
2 - XS Power XP3000

1 - XS Power D375

500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F)
iPadMini2

Dash mounted O-scope
Audison bitOne (Remote DRC MP)
Highs Amp - PPI Art A404
Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...)
DC Audio DC9.0K
2- DC Audio XL12m2

LEGAL             - 147.3dB @ 41Hz
OUTLAW         - 150.2dB @ 45Hz

OUTLAW         - 145.7dB @ 30Hz
JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER

2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER

SOTM BUILD:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026

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