SnowDrifter Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 So I have an issue where the back hatch on my car moves a ton (27hz and below) and pretty much kills my lows. It's not that it's flexing, its that it is pivoting on the hinge and moving across the latch. Similar to the motion of opening and closing it. Any ideas on the most effective way to reduce this? What's on my mind: sound deadening will certainly make it more rigid, but is it the most effective way to hold the panel in place? How about mass loading to make it heavier / greater inertia so it will move less? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 On my hatch i adjust the latch so it closed tighter, It helped some. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterJohnson Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Need help with this too I heard if you add a little bit of electrical tape it'll make it close together tighter aswell Scion tC SQ BuildiPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily drivenFord Explorer C Pillar Wall Build Just a cheap car to destroy with bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andale927 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 look up the FSM for your car, should have info on how to tighten the latch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 From a quick visual inspection, I don't see a way to adjust it. The vehicle in question is a 2003 subaru forester (wagon / crossover SUV). I went onto Chilton and didn't see anything and I don't see any place I trust to get the service manual from. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I don't see any place I trust to get the service manual from. http://techinfo.subaru.com/search/index.html On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C-Fizzy Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Good luck. The only real thing I've been told that will help is to run all thread from the hatch to the floor and use a tensioner in the middle to tighten down. But that's not practical for daily use. You have no idea how bad a hatch can actually flex under construction I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me. u hate c-fizzy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 use great stuff spray foam inside the hatch lid/door. it will add weight to it and can make a big difference. did it to mine and it helped. just make sure anywires in there dont get caught up in the foam or else you will have a fun time digging the wires out if you ever need to. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilcox_81 Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 like alaskanzx5 said i would deffinitly say great stuff foam would help and some sound deadner that is about all i can think of the great stuff foam should help some to add weight to the hatch but for daily driving wouldnt want to put all thread on it or anything like that. Just am idea but maby a latch on each side of the hatch inside to tight'n the hatch in a way would definitly have to modified as for to be able to tight'n it and los'n it and also be able to be removed as to be able to open that hatch when ever you wanti am hopping this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad_ass_car Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 im having the same problem with my hatch and i think im going to try the threaded rod idea. thanks for the info. i'll keep you posted on how well it works i'm new to the spl world and loving it!!!4- power acoustik mofo 152srd d9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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