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amp fuses and the tall tales assiciated


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my last thread i said the amp size=power is bs.....well technically it is, the formula of "x10" is only valid to a 4-ohm load, and even then it deflects 10% anyway...my p1000.1bd is rated to run 1k rms at 1ohm...well it was benched at over 12xx rms and runs NO FUSES! (but it did blow a 100amp inline a few times, 150amp ANL on it now) none of rockfords amps do anymore...

so basically a van with whatever in it at 30k watts total is better than o idk lets say the Rockford Soundlab van which is rated for 10k rms and 20kpeak but is probably truely running closer to 26k peak and i'm sorry I have heard some loud shit but nothing like sitting in that sound lab.--haha should pull this because i'm sure there is going to be 20 ppl say their shit is louder, but it's gonna be funny

I stand by the fuse size being some form of bs (TO AN EXTENT!! as there is far too many ppl that just have this assumption that 30amps means 300 watts MAX no questions asked...and thats def not accurate--kinda like when ppl say plywood is stronger than osb or hdf or an aluminum coil is better than copper...or round is better than flat coils, i mean when this info is passed to someone who has no idea about the stuff they just believe it because "thats what the guy online told me" )....at 4-ohms it seems to work out--and duh 4-ohms is the standard for a stereo equipment resistance, whos uninformed now?--but when you run down to 2 or 1 or .5, the quality and capabilities of the internal components make all the difference in the world.

Just so I can further back my findings...a fosgate 300.1 was run also showing 48x watts rms at 2-ohms when it's advertised at 300 watt rms at said load.

kenwood amp tested....rated to be 500 rms at 4 ohm bridged...ran 480 at ohm rms with a single 40amp fuse...I mean I can go on and run some more amps down to my buddy and they can get run as well, but at this point I don't see the point in it....

BTW everything was done at 14 volts with 180 amps available for current... run through a 0/0 gauge of copper wire and grounded with 0/1...

Edited by rescuedabyss
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Then answer this since you are bringing up locked topics

An amp does 2k@4 ohms vs. an amp that does 2k@1 ohm. Assuming the same efficiency, which amp takes more power to run?

The answer to that shoul help you figure out why fuses can be an accurate indicator of how much power the amp puts out.

 

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Nothing worse than a wannabe know it all who's missing alot of facts

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my last thread i said the amp size=power is bs.....well technically it is, the formula of "x10" is only valid to a 4-ohm load, and even then it deflects 10% anyway...my p1000.1bd is rated to run 1k rms at 1ohm...well it was benched at over 12xx rms and runs NO FUSES! (but it did blow a 100amp inline a few times, 150amp ANL on it now) none of rockfords amps do anymore...

so basically a van with whatever in it at 30k watts total is better than o idk lets say the Rockford Soundlab van which is rated for 10k rms and 20kpeak but is probably truely running closer to 26k peak and i'm sorry I have heard some loud shit but nothing like sitting in that sound lab.--haha should pull this because i'm sure there is going to be 20 ppl say their shit is louder, but it's gonna be funny

I stand by the fuse size being some form of bs (TO AN EXTENT!! as there is far too many ppl that just have this assumption that 30amps means 300 watts MAX no questions asked...and thats def not accurate--kinda like when ppl say plywood is stronger than osb or hdf or an aluminum coil is better than copper...or round is better than flat coils, i mean when this info is passed to someone who has no idea about the stuff they just believe it because "thats what the guy online told me" )....at 4-ohms it seems to work out--and duh 4-ohms is the standard for a stereo equipment resistance, whos uninformed now?--but when you run down to 2 or 1 or .5, the quality and capabilities of the internal components make all the difference in the world.

Just so I can further back my findings...a fosgate 300.1 was run also showing 48x watts rms at 2-ohms when it's advertised at 300 watt rms at said load.

kenwood amp tested....rated to be 500 rms at 4 ohm bridged...ran 480 at ohm rms with a single 40amp fuse...I mean I can go on and run some more amps down to my buddy and they can get run as well, but at this point I don't see the point in it....

BTW everything was done at 14 volts with 180 amps available for current... run through a 0/0 gauge of copper wire and grounded with 0/1...

epic-facepalm-ascii-i17.jpg

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Take a class in electricity, or just a physics class, and then come back. You are wrong, period.

...my p1000.1bd is rated to run 1k rms at 1ohm...well it was benched at over 12xx rms and runs NO FUSES!

No fuses? All that means is your amp isn't protected. Did you happen to read the part of the manual that said you need a 140A in line fuse before the amp? Using the rule of thumb, the most it would put out, then, is 1400, higher than your 1200.

kenwood amp tested....rated to be 500 rms at 4 ohm bridged...ran 480 at ohm rms with a single 40amp fuse...I mean I can go on and run some more amps down to my buddy and they can get run as well, but at this point I don't see the point in it....

I would like to see proof of this one. Please do test more amps and be sure to take videos.

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You should try breaking up sentences so people can have an easier time reading your long ass rant on something that you clearly misunderstand. I dont even see the reason you posted what you, or what sparked it but hey..I'll join in with what "some guy online" told me.

Simple math. 14.4x (fuse rating) = Maximum amount of power that can travel through that fuse before it blows...therefore the maximum amount of power an amplifier with 100% efficiency can produce.(YOU WILL NEVER FIND AN AMP WITH 100% efficiency).

Also you go on a rant about fuse ratings are bS blah blah. Dude if the amp doesnt have a fuse than wtf are you talking about? Rockford gives you a birthseet that shows max UNCLIPPED power form their amps. You fuse at the next fuse available above that power rating. If its 8xx watts you put in a 80amp and be happy. I dont understand what point you are trying to make.

Look at amps with integrated fuses. My BRZ made about 1k-1100 and was fused with 2x70amp fuses. Perfect being it is known for not being very effecient.

I just want to know what you are smoking and if I can have some please. Please do not try and tell me a BOSS phantom 4k puts out 4000 watts or Crunch whatchamacallit puts out 5K with 150amp fuse on the side.

Edited by Chris Hammer

MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild*****

Vehicles

2005 GMC Canyon

CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.)

crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it.

CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg

Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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smdh, facepalm and all that other stuff...Generally speaking, fuses are a very good indicator of power. And I dont see where you taking your examples to mean. The Kenwood is fused at 40a, so on a 14v supply, 40x14= 560w. That doesnt take into account that it isnt 100% efficient. So rather then your claim refuting the validity of fuses, it actually supports it in a way.

There are a FEW cases where fusing isnt a true indicator. The Cadence a7hc is fused at 80a, but does closer to around 1300 or so. This is the exception, not the norm

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smdh, facepalm and all that other stuff...Generally speaking, fuses are a very good indicator of power. And I dont see where you taking your examples to mean. The Kenwood is fused at 40a, so on a 14v supply, 40x14= 560w. That doesnt take into account that it isnt 100% efficient. So rather then your claim refuting the validity of fuses, it actually supports it in a way.

There are a FEW cases where fusing isnt a true indicator. The Cadence a7hc is fused at 80a, but does closer to around 1300 or so. This is the exception, not the norm

Not calling you a liar...but how the heck does that work. I know nothing about the Cadence a7hc. But 80amp fuse 14.4volts = 11xx. What am i missing....? lol

Edited by Chris Hammer

MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild*****

Vehicles

2005 GMC Canyon

CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.)

crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it.

CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg

Sold to:

Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585

Shower farts still piss me off.

I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot.
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until you can show rock solid proof this thread = :bull:

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