ewilliams5430 Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 hey guys, i just bought some new door speakers and need some advice on how to run the wires through the door frame/boot tubing. my car is a 2004 taurus se and the speakers are rf t1862 if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mttornquist Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 its a pain in the ass man! i usually feed a long zip tie trough first then tape the wire to that and pull it back. Quote My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...lmost-complete/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewilliams5430 Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 i can imagine how much of a pain in the ass it is. my friend has a fish tape that i could use but idk when hes gonna be home so i was just looking for other suggestions. im not sure if the longest zip tie would be long enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 I use a wire coat hanger. Just cut a pice long enough that you need and tape the wire to that. Quote Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ddub847 Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 My 99 cavalier was easy it. My 05 dodge magnum....impossible. but try the wire coat hanger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 or use 8 gauge wire. depends n the door grommets too. some you can pull out of both ends and squish together and feed it through that way. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 havent done it myself but if heard of people taping/connecting the stock wire to the new wire and pulling it through. Quote t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95legwagon Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 or use 8 gauge wire. depends n the door grommets too. some you can pull out of both ends and squish together and feed it through that way. /\ this..... the grommets come out decently easy in your car. and they shouldnt be hard to put back in either..... at work when i am removing doors i usually just give the grommet a yank and it pops right outta the door/car..... good luck! Quote i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl0wn Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 Just be careful, may want to research to make sure you don't have an actual electrical connector inside of the grommets, that is how my last 2 vehicles were. Quote 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 Just be careful, may want to research to make sure you don't have an actual electrical connector inside of the grommets, that is how my last 2 vehicles were. Molex connectors FML. Makes something as simple as running speaker wire almost impossible. Quote SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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