Lbox88 Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 (edited) That's how I read it and if so, take the fuse out, check resistance, and then put it back in if it's good and make sure the connections are TIGHT. I had a nut loosen up on my amp + input, caused my voltage to look like it was sitting in the 12's/13's when it was actually sitting higher. Normally heat would come with a situation like that, in my case it did and the bolt was hot to the touch, and I would think if you're seeing it drop that much, the fuse holder would melt. Like said, check the fuse to make sure it's good, then check the connections on that fuse holder. Seems like the only two possible problems in that short of a distance. Edited August 17, 2012 by Lbox88 Quote UBL | Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerman Posted August 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Do I have this right? You connected the dmm lead directly to each side of the fuse holder and got different readings? You sir are correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bakerman Posted August 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Normally heat would come with a situation like that, in my case it did and the bolt was hot to the touch, and I would think if you're seeing it drop that much, the fuse holder would melt. This was my reasoning...but there were no signs of heat damage ANYWHERE...which is why I am dumbfounded. I tried 3 different fuse holders and 4 different fuses...all had the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 (edited) Check the voltage on the actual fuse holder itself. See if the voltage is 1.6v on the part that touches the fuse, then check each connection till you get to the amp, that should tell you where the drop is. Have you tried a different power wire that runs to the fuse holder? Edited August 17, 2012 by MrSkippyJ Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 bypass the fuse holde rand link the two ends of wire together. what does the end of the wire look like? Is it ring terminals or a push block style? Any corrosion on the wire? Is it turning green? does he have a cap or anything in the back of the car? extra battery? Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 (edited) That is weird. Try a different battery just to rule out the battery does not have a dead cell. I am completely just throwing ideas out there. Also was that test done with ignition on or off Edited August 17, 2012 by Hotdog Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner800 Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 bypass the fuse holde rand link the two ends of wire together. what does the end of the wire look like? Is it ring terminals or a push block style? Any corrosion on the wire? Is it turning green? does he have a cap or anything in the back of the car? extra battery? X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotdog Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 ok I see where you tested with car running. Turn car off and test both sides of the fuse with no load on it. Quote (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 faulty fuse holder itself? Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NT_Hardcore Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 bypass the fuse and holder. see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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