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18" Subs That Can Handle Over 6000watts RMS


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I try to stay away from subs that are inefficient at low wattage. I know that SPL number doesn't mean shit when the speaker is being pounded by 6000 watts, but if all other specs are the same, I will always go with the sub with the higher efficiency rating. It may be wrong to some, but that is what I look for spec-wise.

The SP4 is far from inefficient at low power, I ran my 2 15s wired stupidly high and they still managed to get loud. Yes efficiency is the key, but it doesn't stop at the sub, every other part of your install needs to be efficient.

It will be designed for the utmost efficiency. The highest stranded OFC 1/0 wire I could get my hands on is on its way and each amp will still see dual inputs. I don't plan to skimp anywhere on the electrical, other than limiting myself to the rules of idbl Stock Pro 2 class.

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

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Sensitivity ratings of a subwoofer mean extremely little except to boast about specs.

Ed Lester

ShowtimeSPL Host

Showtime Electronics Video Marketing

My old Build Log
http://www.stevemead...08/#entry511451

http://www.youtube.com/showtimespl



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5 time dB Drag Finalist
Last ride 2007 HHR, current dB 153.5 and bass race 149.4 dB. 153.0 dB on music

New Ride, 2008 HHR SS. Build under way.
Loudest score ever = 171dB
2009 dB Drag Racing, North American Points Champion

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I think the biggest issue here is that you want to throw a TON of power at a pair of 18's in a box that wasn't designed for them nor was it designed for this specific application. If you want to run a sub with more than rated wattage reliably, the enclosure will need to be designed with this in mind. If you're just looking to swap subs and run as much power to them as possible reliably in your current box, I would look at the rms ratings and go off of those.

Most subs will take more than rated, but if you’re going to be railing on them full tilt for multiple songs in a row you’ve got to do a lot more than just dropping them in a box. I’m not saying your box isn’t good or wouldn’t work with other subs, but having a sub handle more than rated power for extended periods of time is a lot more complicated. It’s pretty close to dropping subs in a good prefab box. There’s a lot more to it than that.

As far as subs I would consider, pretty much anything that has already been stated in the thread. Definitely a 4” coil sub. Personally I’d look at the DC Lvl 6. But other options are definitely viable (I.e. SMD; SP4; etc.)

I know you’ve put a lot of time and effort into your current box, but if you’re dead set on running 6k, I’d look into building a new box, otherwise resign to the fact that you’ll be only wanting to run around rated rms to whatever subs you get. Companies rate them that way for a reason. A lvl 6 for example should take 4kw all day long in a reasonable enclosure with clean power. There’s a big difference between handling a given amount of power for ½-1 song vs. multiple songs in a row.

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Just curious what gives you the idea that my box couldn't handle that sort of power? I have admitted several times that it was an experiment, so even I don't know where the breaking point is. All I know is that I am nowhere close to it right now. If the box fails, I will rebuild a new one better and stronger. I'd sorta like to see it fail so I CAN build a better one the second go round, but if it doesn't fail, that's success. I have customers using 1/4" thick carbon fiber parts I've made to hold their 2000 horsepower engines in their drag cars. And last time I checked, 2000hp>24,000watts. Yes, the stresses are different and the box isn't built with 28 layers of highly compressed carbon fiber like my motor plates, but I have a great deal of faith that this subwoofer box can handle the abuse. But like I said, if it fails, I will learn from it and rebuild better and stronger.

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

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How would u even modify ur current box for 2 18s to fit and old one?

Just cut a center hole on a cover baffle?

I think you should sell the box you have build another box, test test test, then carbon fiber it again :good: cuz it looks badass

SCSB

Santa Cruz Speaker Box

Build logs:

Daily Driver Lemon Marquis

2 american bass 750.1s

350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s

sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters

Mystery subs peepwall.gif

http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass

http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/

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Sensitivity ratings of a subwoofer mean extremely little except to boast about specs.

:lol2:

I was waiting for someone to say something like this

SCSB

Santa Cruz Speaker Box

Build logs:

Daily Driver Lemon Marquis

2 american bass 750.1s

350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s

sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters

Mystery subs peepwall.gif

http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass

http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/

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Just curious what gives you the idea that my box couldn't handle that sort of power? I have admitted several times that it was an experiment, so even I don't know where the breaking point is. All I know is that I am nowhere close to it right now. If the box fails, I will rebuild a new one better and stronger. I'd sorta like to see it fail so I CAN build a better one the second go round, but if it doesn't fail, that's success. I have customers using 1/4" thick carbon fiber parts I've made to hold their 2000 horsepower engines in their drag cars. And last time I checked, 2000hp>24,000watts. Yes, the stresses are different and the box isn't built with 28 layers of highly compressed carbon fiber like my motor plates, but I have a great deal of faith that this subwoofer box can handle the abuse. But like I said, if it fails, I will learn from it and rebuild better and stronger.

I never said your box couldn't handle it, I'm saying the subs most likely won't be able to handle it in Your box due to it's design. It's possible that they will, but most likely without building it for the subs (design wise) and for the power (design wise), the subs won't take the power.

Do you know where your box rise is, etc.? I'll admit, I don't know what it would take to get the subs to handle that kind of power (regardless of what you go with), but I do know that you can't just throw a sub in a box and have it take 1.5x rated power right off the bat. Maybe someone more experienceed with running this kinda power per sub can chime in with more specifics.

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I never said your box couldn't handle it, I'm saying the subs most likely won't be able to handle it in Your box due to it's design. It's possible that they will, but most likely without building it for the subs (design wise) and for the power (design wise), the subs won't take the power.

Do you know where your box rise is, etc.? I'll admit, I don't know what it would take to get the subs to handle that kind of power (regardless of what you go with), but I do know that you can't just throw a sub in a box and have it take 1.5x rated power right off the bat. Maybe someone more experienceed with running this kinda power per sub can chime in with more specifics.

I think we're talking about two different things here. I'm not looking to push the subs at 1.5x or 2x their rated power. I am looking for subs that ARE rated to handle 6000+ each, NOT subs rated at 2500 that "could handle" 6000 if treated with kid gloves. Others were suggesting subs that are rated way under what I asked, but I'm not interested in those. I am interested only in subs that are designed to handle that sort of power from the start. know what I mean?

2006 Cadillac Escalade

2/3 drop on 28" wheels

Two RE SX 18" subs

RF T2500-1bdCP amp, 3531watts on birthsheet

Custom carbon fiber sub box

EVERYTHING else is stock, for now

149.4 @ 37hz, Termlab, dash, open window on two AQ3 18s all stock electrical, wired to .25 ohm on a RF T2500

148.8 @ 36hz, Termlab, dash, open window on one AQ3 18 all stock electrical, wired to .5 ohm on a RF T2500

147.8 @ 38hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on two RE SX 18s

146.4 @ 36hz, Termlab, legal, sealed on one RE SX 18

Link to my hack-built, stupid, carbon fiber wasting project.... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/149946-carbon-fiber-box-update-1494db-37hz-on-tl/

http://gifsoup.com/NDM3MTc1MQ

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Just curious what gives you the idea that my box couldn't handle that sort of power? I have admitted several times that it was an experiment, so even I don't know where the breaking point is. All I know is that I am nowhere close to it right now. If the box fails, I will rebuild a new one better and stronger. I'd sorta like to see it fail so I CAN build a better one the second go round, but if it doesn't fail, that's success. I have customers using 1/4" thick carbon fiber parts I've made to hold their 2000 horsepower engines in their drag cars. And last time I checked, 2000hp>24,000watts. Yes, the stresses are different and the box isn't built with 28 layers of highly compressed carbon fiber like my motor plates, but I have a great deal of faith that this subwoofer box can handle the abuse. But like I said, if it fails, I will learn from it and rebuild better and stronger.

I never said your box couldn't handle it, I'm saying the subs most likely won't be able to handle it in Your box due to it's design. It's possible that they will, but most likely without building it for the subs (design wise) and for the power (design wise), the subs won't take the power.

Do you know where your box rise is, etc.? I'll admit, I don't know what it would take to get the subs to handle that kind of power (regardless of what you go with), but I do know that you can't just throw a sub in a box and have it take 1.5x rated power right off the bat. Maybe someone more experienceed with running this kinda power per sub can chime in with more specifics.

His box is already built for 2-18s...even 18's from different brands require close to the same box sizes. The ssd-18 and SP4-18 work in 6-8ft^3...ones 1000wrms the other 2.5k(lol yeah right). If he is within the specs of whichever sub he chooses he will be fine.

DC level 6 suggested is 6ft^3

Mayhem 18" - 5-8ft^3

SMD - 4-7ft^3

SP4 - 6-8ft^3

Lower power 18's all fall within the same sizes.... I think he should be good on his box.. Maybe the current box wont be the loudest the particular sub could acheive but as far as it being safe clean power and crossovers matter more at this point. And not 1.5x power if he gets a level 6 he is throwing 1.5k more than rms but rms is 4500..and underrated at that. Now if he goes witha SP4 or mayhem than he will be giving them over 2x their rated rms. I think any of them will be fine as far as burning up the coils if his power is clean..but I would be worried about mechanical limits when you overdrive a sub that much...Spiders leads and possibility of bottoming.

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