239ManorBlock Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Well ive been designing a box for my 98 Honda Civic ex 2 Door coupe. Im hoping to start this weekend, I know how to build sealed but never tried ported could you look over this design and let me know if it would work without port noise or anything i may not know about. I know its small for 2 15's but that about all the space i can work with about 4.3-4.9 cubes Width can be from 34-36. Height can only be 16 or i have to remove my 6x9's and i dont wan't to. Depth can be from 16-22 These are the subs im going with-http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-522 did some research these are acutal work good in small boxes and for the price if they blow not a huge loss or if i don't like sell them and get some Sundown E-15's or SSA DCON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
239ManorBlock Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 bump anything i was hoping to start today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Socky Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 cant bump in less than 12 hours, but try torres box calculator, the re box calculator isnt accurate, get around 12-16 port for a slot. Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
239ManorBlock Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 cant bump in less than 12 hours, but try torres box calculator, the re box calculator isnt accurate, get around 12-16 port for a slot. K thanks for the info. The thing i dont get about torres what would be a good port width and diameter, what would be a good woofer displacement to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 If you box can be 16.5h then that box would be of good size for 1 15" only. Then minimum net volume for 2 15" subs would be around 6 cubes. I think that 2 12s would fit your application if you are below 5 cubes net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
239ManorBlock Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 If you box can be 16.5h then that box would be of good size for 1 15" only. Then minimum net volume for 2 15" subs would be around 6 cubes. I think that 2 12s would fit your application if you are below 5 cubes net. I was going to go with 2 12's but couldn't find any cheap one's that looked good to me. I have 2 kicker cvr 15's in a sealed pre fab box that probably has 1.3 cub per chamber and its loud as hell. but one subs started to make a popping noise when i crack it up still fully functional its not blown,thinking it could be tinsel lead. I bought the bravox because i went on their Brazil sites with google translator and it said they work well with small enclosers A question i have is when i use re box calculator and i put port width at 3 and port length at 0 i get a total length of 20.5 but when i use torres if i put everything the way i did in re calculator 0 in length box i get 68 hz. But if i put 20.5 in port length its very close to the hz re calculator gives me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 1, 2013 Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 If you look closely in the pic above RE let's you change L2 which is the length of the panel after the port turns, not the overall length of the port (like Torres do). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Please don't take this the wrong way. I advise you take some time before you buy anything and read more around this site. Use the search feature, learn, ask questions Before you decide on a product. Knowledge is power. And can save you wasted money in the long run. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroupe79 Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 you should research this site, alot of useful knowledge to be obtained....I personally wouldn't go with Bravo subs, there are great subs out there for under $200 and you will be blown away by the performance they offer... http://www.stevemead...cherokee-build/ 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Alpine CDE-hd148bt Alpine PKG-RSE2 PRV Audio (4) 6MB200 front/rear doors PRV Audio (4) TW350Ti dash/rear doors Kicker KX350.4 Obsidian Audio (1) 18 D4 v2 revamp (2) Stereo Integrity HT 18d2DC Audio 1.2k5.25ft^3 tuned @34hz revamp Infinite Baffle Cpillar AudioTechnix 60mil deadenerKnuKonceptz & SkyHigh wire (complete setup) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 cheap good loud pick two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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