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A Capacitor...


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I want to see if the caps do help with my Jeep while not having a HO alt and the difference with the HO alt. If they help I will keep them in after I tested both with and without the alternator. But if the alternator dies then I will say that the caps must of done something to the alternator like making it constantly charge the caps leading to its demise.

Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box)

Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1

Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1

JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 

DEH80-PRS

XS Power d3400

Singer Alternator 275A

98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed

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Lmao, thats a good picture. I hope my caps don't turn out as paper weights.

Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box)

Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1

Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1

JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 

DEH80-PRS

XS Power d3400

Singer Alternator 275A

98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed

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i know you want to learn and do trial and error....but that's a big chunk of money you can put into a H/O alternator imo. unless there's another reason that i'm missing as to why you're not/can't get one soon

 

 

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The reason why I cant get the alternator is because in 3 weeks I am moving down to TN, And according to mike singer he is out at SBN until after the first week of march, then there is a 2 week build time for the alternator plus time being shipped. I'm putting the system in my Jeep now so that I can show the non believers up here in CT that there is better than Alpine, JL, Kicker, Polk Audio. No one up where I am has heard of Sundown, Skar, DC, SA(AQ) Audio Technx, Singer, Mechman, DC Power. Plus I want to show my local audio shop that internet brands can be better for the money, My local audio store stocks Alpine, Kenwood, JL, Hertz, Audison, Morel, I asked for JL 3v3's for example they wanted 669 for the sealed prefab box with no amp. I know that if you were going to go to SSA the store website you can get 2 12's for a lot less than that, Then get an amp, then you just need a box.

Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box)

Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1

Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1

JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 

DEH80-PRS

XS Power d3400

Singer Alternator 275A

98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed

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I wouldn't drop that much on some caps, especially to "prove" a small point, cause more then likely, they will still be thick headed after the fact, if I read correctly that's what you're wanting to do. That's a big chunk of change. Just say fuck em, and move on and just save.yourself the trouble.

*06 330i - Sundern x12 - saz-3500*


*91 Foxbody V1 S-Trim Notch*

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I want to do that but also I would like to also see if the Caps actually do anything other than cause stress on alternators. I'm kinda expecting to have my alternator to die on me, but I am also expecting to see at least one positive result.

Skar Audio SDR 10" x2 (Sealed Box)

Skar Audio 1500.1D (1 Ohm) x1

Skar Audio TX525c (Front with dash tweeter) x1

Kenwood Excelon KFC-X173 (Rear Coax) x1

JL Audio 360.4 (Mids & Highs Amp) x1 

DEH80-PRS

XS Power d3400

Singer Alternator 275A

98 Jeep TJ 4.0 5 Speed

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You sir are playing with fire..
Well i guess you gotta learn the hard way..
You better save up for a tow when your car busts..

2006 Silverado Ext. Cab

6-15" SSA ZCONS

4th Order Blow-Through

Pioneer AVH-P4200dvd

American Bass VFL 1100.1 12 volt

6 C&D Batteries

2-350A Singer Alternators and Stock Alt

DC Power Triple Alt Kit

MLA Module

3 Runs of 1/0

2 Sets of Boston Acoustics 6.5 Pro Components

Boston Acoustics 2-channel

Lots of Sound Deadener

....Build still in Progress...

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WHY IS THE CAPACITOR USELESS IN CAR AUDIO SYSTEMS?


Because they don’t produce any current in and of themselves. This shouldn’t be news to anyone. Their purpose is to stabilize voltage by acting like a virtual “voltage wall” (buffer) to their intended devices. But, they have a very detrimental side-effect when applied to current-limited automotive systems. They buffer current flow behind the “voltage wall” and redirect it away from their intended devices: the amplifiers!



WHY DO MY HEADLIGHTS FLICKER LESS WITH THE CAPACITOR?


Many people will use a capacitor because their headlights flicker at night when their audio system is pounding. They figure that the capacitor will supply these high current demands directly to their amplifiers. Hence the amplifiers won’t stress the rest of the electrical system, including the headlights. And guess what? When they add the capacitor, the headlight flickering is reduced substantially. So there you go.....this is “proof” that the capacitor performed as advertized!



Not so fast! Let’s analyze exactly what is happening when you add a capacitor between your amplifiers and the rest of your car’s electrical system:


Since the capacitor’s +ve and –ve terminals are directly connected to the terminals of your amplifiers, it actually acts as a buffer for the headlights - NOT for the amplifiers!


Remember: the accessories (i.e. headlights) and the current output by the alternator are BEHIND the “voltage wall” of the capacitor. The current generated by the alternator is directly available and pulled by the car’s accessories due to the path of least resistance and the buffering action of the capacitor. And this happens because the capacitor’s voltage DROPS when drained by the amplifiers. Since the voltage potential is higher at the alternator end, which is BEHIND the capacitor, the accessories have a more stable voltage and current supply than the amplifiers do as the capacitor is slowly charging.


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