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let's talk about warm woofers


knubs

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hey guys, i just need some help fully understanding my situation. i have a DC XL 15" that is about a week old and it has a tendancy to get warm on the dust cap quickly. does a sub run warmer while it breaks in? im trying to figure out why my sub keeps getting warm while it is being under powered. i am running a hifonics brutus 2400 amp, a DC XL 15" (m2, with d2 coils wired to 1 ohm), a 180amp alternator, a kinetik hc2400, knu 0 gauge, and a sony head unit. my gains were set on the HU and amp with a dd1. i set the hu with the 0db tracks (had the tracks on my phone and tuned with that as the source unit since that is where all my music is played from) and the amp right now has the gain a bit below the clipping point for the -5db track. while running at full tilt my voltage gets to be like 13.3 at the lowest but is usually higher. oh, and my music im playing for all this is decaf

i can play one song full tilt and my dustcap starts getting fairly warm and i have to back off to keep it from getting hotter. this confuses me. why is it getting warm like this? im assuming it's bad for the voice coil to be warming up like that... i am only pushing a 2400 watt amp with the gain a little above half to a sub that is 'rated' for 2200w daily, and i know a lot of people run more than that to theirs. i shouldnt be clipping and even if i was, the way i understand clipping the wave flattens off and exposes the sub to a higher voltage for longer, but if i am supplying under rated power for the sub shouldn't it take a light clip with no problem?

is the sub just supposed to warm up a lot while it is breaking in or something? i have probably 10 hours of play time in the past week and that's all this sub has ever had. i even played at low volume for the first few days just to let it loosen up a bit.

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Getting warm is normal.

Getting hot is not

If it doesn't smell like coil or anything, I think you should be fine.

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Stolen from Jacob at Sundown

A warm dust cap is not going to be unusual. Any speaker is very inefficient -- most of the energy turns into heat. The dust cap movement pumps air in and out of the motor so all of this hot air comes into contact with the cap.

Now if it's getting hot that's another story


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car was off when i set with the dd1. and my box is 3.5 cubic feet and is tuned to 35hz with 15 inches of cross sectional port area per foot. the bass boost is all the way down.

and it gets warm after one song. after 2 or 3 it is hot. i haven't smelt coil but i would if i kept pushing it. i've been keeping a close eye on the sub.

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Underpowering doesn't really mean you can start clipping. Clipping reduces the subs ability to dissipate heat. There is a point where the voice coil will not need any movement to cool. Beyond that you just have to play around with things to see where you can soft clip and where you can't. And a warm dust cap isn't necessarily unusual, a hot dust cap is more significant. Plus, smell is a better indicator than trying to determine if a dust cap is warm or hot.

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Underpowering doesn't really mean you can start clipping. Clipping reduces the subs ability to dissipate heat. There is a point where the voice coil will not need any movement to cool. Beyond that you just have to play around with things to see where you can soft clip and where you can't. And a warm dust cap isn't necessarily unusual, a hot dust cap is more significant. Plus, smell is a better indicator than trying to determine if a dust cap is warm or hot.

I got über ninjad!

there is no clipping. the HU and amp are turned down below the clipping point a bit. and how bad is it to smell coil for a second? i've been really afraid to ever push it there.

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^This after a couple songs full tilt my xls will start to get stinky but the cap will still be cool to the touch...

how do they get stinky and stay cool? isn't the smell from burning voice coil glue? if so how would the dustcap stay cool?

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