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Posted

Didn't see how big of a system you're putting in, but while you have the doors off...Onthe window motor things that are riveted to the door.

Drill out the rivets and bolt them in.

The rivets will break

I just re read what you wrote. And i actually was told by another non member about these. I though you were suggesing to remove the speakers, to drill out the rivets, which, was what it did. Now, i see CLEARLY what you ment.

And, i followed suit last night.

IMG_2124_zps7cbbc74b.jpg

And, i found out i didnt have decent fastners. So, i stuck these in till i can hit FASTENALL for my needs.

Thanks Tacomaguy1. If you know of any other weaknesses, id be happy to pay more attention.

Shit, im doing more repair work on this, than audio work. But, in my head, i just cant over look it !!!!!.. damn A.D.D,.. OCD shit !!!!

I didn't have a pic at the time, but yeah that's what I was talking about. Get some bolts and you'll be set

This can happen to. Welding a steel plate behind the latch is the best way to distribute the load on that panel instead of just the latch bolted like it is stock.

I don't have access to a welder so i'm going to do a steel plate and use 3m panelbond to bond it in place. With the stock bolts holding the latch on to line everything up

02b6343e_zps6060ab53.jpg

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Hmmmmm... Thanks,.. and ill look into that.

Did you see the issue i already have? (i started another thread in the interior/exterier section.

Anyway, after removing the panel to send out for glassing, and installing the DAMP PRO, the arm section of the inner door, ya know.. all the plugs and wires and shit for all the switches is just zip tied in place. Its just dangling there. So, i started shutting my door real real slow. Then, i noticed that it would "lift up" when it closed fully.

I snapped a pic. And used the gay pin stripe to show.

Right at open

IMG_2125_zps02ee814d.jpg

Shut

IMG_2126_zps376aef28.jpg

Ill look into that bro.. thanks.... Keep that shit coming...

Posted

We linked him to replacement bushings, pins, and how-to videos and repair guides in the other thread already. Given if he has enough tools, he and Laura should be able to replace it in probably less than an hour per door. Or buy the shit to do it and have a shop replace the parts for them.

Edit: is it just the driver door doing it? My friend has a 2 door but his was waaaay worse and it lasted him quite a while without damage to the striker.

Posted

Everything's looking good kyle. Sorry to hear about the problems already.

Stay well

under construction

I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me.

u hate c-fizzy?

Posted

We linked him to replacement bushings, pins, and how-to videos and repair guides in the other thread already. Given if he has enough tools, he and Laura should be able to replace it in probably less than an hour per door. Or buy the shit to do it and have a shop replace the parts for them.

Edit: is it just the driver door doing it? My friend has a 2 door but his was waaaay worse and it lasted him quite a while without damage to the striker.

Yep.,... we are good. Im gonna keep a close eye on it...

Repair will come when we start getting into the lowering kit, and making it pretty. I was just hoping i could "tweak/adjust" it for now. But, well get it done. Thanks Alek

Didn't realize there was another thread about it. Very well, carry on.

Your good bro... thanks for the help. Its appreciated.

Everything's looking good kyle. Sorry to hear about the problems already.

Stay well

Nothing that is gonna come close to stopping us bro.... NOTHING .......... Your not around enough dude... Really.

Door pins arnt hard at all to replace iv used my floor jack to hold the door and my friend to balance it

Cool. We will address it. For right now..... I wanna get loud....

Thanks all.... cheers...

Posted

I know, apologies. Life is getting hectic and I'm getting out of the game for a bit

under construction

I hate People with crappy primered cars rolling on hubcaps that are louder then me.

u hate c-fizzy?

Posted

You're going to have fun with that .3,a lot of stuff to do with that thing. I love mine and still haven't finished tuning,still trying to figure out the best way to wire the amps/.3603 since I have different speakers in my 03 S10 Xtreme. Like the BL you have in some of your pics,drink up and get those elbows working. Nice choice of RCA's I might add. Also if you're putting a D3400 under the hood then be prepared to cut some of that battery tray. I had to cut the side off closest to the radiator and the back left corner near the fender well. Looking good bro

Thanks. I ran the 3sixty.2 in my last build. And i used and love the TWISTED cables. But, the amps im using in THIS build are a UNBALANCED in only. So, those will be just the normal COAX style. But, im not there yet.

So, twisted from my 80prs, ran BALANCED (cuz the .3 is switchable) IN, then, just COAX out to my amps. Should provide one hell of a clean ass signal.

I know in my Acura, with a STOCK head unit, and running nothing but the twisted rca's in and out, (i was running the BDCP amp, which can have unbalanced/balanced) i had ZERO noise introduced. Like zero. I could even run the gains all the way up, (no tones playing of course) and not hear the slightest hiss.

Anyway thanks for the interest.

I was gonna comment and ask the question, but I see you edited the text.

I saw balanced/unbalanced switched around and was confused for a second :D

I like the attention to detail and the correct cable for the application :good:

So that Pioneer has balanced outputs? I looked online and didn't see specific mention of it.

If so, that thing looks to be pretty impressive.

:good:

Lol... I hit "post" and went... "damn, how did I put that? Lol.

That's my understanding from the sig with the prs bro.

And thanks... It's those lil details that make it worth it.

I just couldn't do the Damore cables right now.

So, I went with the old faithful.

Thanks wicks!! Like your posts/comments.

All, this was what started it. My boy WICKS here, who is smarter than i am, by a million fold, got me really really thinking. I looked at PIONEER's website. And, well, after seeing and hearing about this 80prs, i just ASSUMED it was able to put out a BALANCED sig.

I sat on the phone after talking with WICKS, for 30 plus mins on the number from the site. Turns out.... my assumption, was WRONG.

The cables will go back to SONIC, and i will look at other options. Maybe have a member on here make some COAX for me, or something. But, the twisted cables, do me NO good.

I WAS WRONG here... so, please, DO NOT FOLLOW SUIT...

Sorry for shit info. I just went with what I THOUGHT, and not what i KNEW. Always a bad idea.

Thanks for the understanding. And GFY if your that upset about it.

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