gckless Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 The power LEDs on these GZ amps are extremely bright. They light up the whole cabin at night. Anyone know a good way to tame them? I figured I'd just take a sharpie to them. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Uh oh. Thermal protect on the two channel. She was cooking. Like, burn my hand hot. This has cooling fans on the inside, but they never spun at all. Not sure why. This amp's side panels were a little damaged when it arrived, but nothing looked wrong at all, so I'm not sure that's the reason. Regardless, talked to Scott immediately to see if he's seen this before. He said no. He said that he could ship another out Tuesday, if I could pull this one and get it back to him next weekend. I was like you, sir, are awesome! Not too many companies work that quick, nor will ship you a replacement before they receive the broken item. Just another testament to GZ USA's customer service. GZ is awesome. On the other hand, the truck is louder and sounds better than it ever has. TM65's are definitely louder, at least to me right now. Again though, I had that temp amp for a couple months so I might just not remember correctly. Either way, I'm happy right now. The SS amp stayed cool, the GZ 4 channel did get pretty warm, but not like the GZ 2 channel did. Even sealed, there is a good amount of output from these Daytons, I'm pretty happy with them right now. Blends very well with the front. Really happy with this so far, and right now I'm just guesstimating amp gain level by eye and ear. Gonna let things break in and then bust out the scope. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToNasty Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Who are.you getting GZ from? ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Who are.you getting GZ from? Scott or Brandon will take care of you. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/ground-zero/ "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Paper hole punch some window tint to cover the bright LED's. A 1/4th of a drop of CA and you've got custom tinted LED's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 So I’ve got some things to do here, and I need some ideas. Scott from GZ USA was awesome enough to ship me out a new amp. I can’t speak highly enough of the customer service from both him and Brandon. They make well sure that whatever you need, you have, until you’re happy. They’ve done more at this point than any other company has for me. Beyond that, I found out that the fans on the inside of the amp are not enough to overcome the hundred-degree Texas heat. So, I need to figure out the best way to add fans. I would like to keep it to two fans, I have 140mm fans now, one under each amp. I would like to put them underneath the amp, with the bottom covers removed, so that way I keep the clean look on top of the amp rack. With them below you will never know they are there. This may not resolve it, because most of the heat exchange is handled through the fins on the top of the heatsink (the case), but I’m hoping it’s going to be enough. I will be removing the bottom covers of both amps, and I am also able to remove the side panels from both amps. When I say remove the side panels in my options below, I mean the right panel of the left amp, and the left panel of the right amp, so the ones inside. I’ll be keeping the panels in place on the outside so the amps look normal. Now the way my amp rack is, I think I have a couple options: 1. Keep the side panels on, have both fans pushing (blowing up into amp). 2. Remove side panels, have both fans pushing. 3. Remove side panels, have one fan pushing and one fan pulling. What do you think? I’m open to other ideas as well. Or do you guys think I will need to put airflow across the top of the amps, that just under won’t suffice? "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 it gets hot here in utah, but, nothing like what you TX and AZ guys put up with. bummer...... but the build looks on par as hell..... nice work SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 Maybe I am getting your suggestion wrong but what I would do, Airflow across the amp and space the amps so you have air going under them too. Cut out openings under them too. May be a good idea to make a square passage-way over the amps so the push pull fan config is a little more efficient then in complete free air. I hope that made sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 it gets hot here in utah, but, nothing like what you TX and AZ guys put up with. bummer...... but the build looks on par as hell..... nice work Thanks man. Yeah, it's pretty rough down here around now for a couple months. I mean I have pretty dark tinted windows in the rear, around like 8% or so, but even with that, if the sun is on the amps they get too hot to touch even when they're off. Not to mention, the truck is like an oven whenever I'm not in it. Running a 1500W Class A/B amp all out at minimum rated impedance doesn't help either. Maybe I am getting your suggestion wrong but what I would do, Airflow across the amp and space the amps so you have air going under them too. Cut out openings under them too. May be a good idea to make a square passage-way over the amps so the push pull fan config is a little more efficient then in complete free air. I hope that made sense. I get what you're saying, and that would work pretty well, with the cover creating a slipstream over the amps. I'm trying to keep the look of this intact though, so no noticeable changes. There's absolutely no reason I need to raise the amps. There are no vent holes, no components attached to, no cooling being offered by that bottom cover whatsoever, so does nothing to raise it. Don't mean to rude, I've just explained this and fought this battle with too many people....lol. So what I was going to do was cut holes underneath the amps for the fans, remove the bottom covers so the guts are exposed, and mount the fans horizontally to the board the amps are mounted to, blowing (or pulling) directly at the bottom of the amps. Maybe that makes more sense with my options above? That way no one would know they are there, everything still looks the same from the outside. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted July 15, 2015 Report Share Posted July 15, 2015 since your heat sink is on the top of the amp like youve mentioned, but you want the fans below the amps, id go with one of your original ideas and remove the bottom covers, and 1 side cover form each, then have each fan pushing air into the amps from the bottom, that way it forces cooler air to the top of the amp, which in turn will help the fins of the heat sink see circulated air and hopefully stay cooler since the air isnt stagnant. just my .02 cents Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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