n8ball2013 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Running boards will cause rust where the water gets between them and the body ditch em THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 my friend is getting his cab corners decals removed and repainted the same color (Sand the clear coat off then respray) for 1300 not a bad price if you ask me.. so if you are worried about them look around for some one to do it .... my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham0599 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I like the idea of the truck! Ditch the running boards, and i'd remove the chrome trim. Those extended cabs get loud easy. Plus that truck is absolutely amazing shape, especially the interior. Now just go make a build log and take a bazillion pictures! (yes actual number) My 350z build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174424-2008-350z-build/page-2?hl=%2B350z+%2Bbuild#entry2605678 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 If you hit up rockauto I think you could get both front fender for 130 bucks, and the cab corners are like 50 a piece if I remember correctly. I recently did a buddies trunk, with parts and having it painted he was into it for 1500 bucks? but that was just putting a cheap paint job on the truck. I also did all the prep myself, primer, fill, sand, prime, fill, sand, primer! 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 The cab corners need welded in that's whwre jt gets tricky. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Before I had a welder, we took my f150 to have the corns done. I bought all the parts and cut out the corners, then I took it to the local exhaust shop and had them weld them it. Charged me like 100 bucks to weld them in. The welding shop in town wanted like 500. You could also check into that. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 I know it's been a week but I'm still making my way around this place..... No matter what get some metal back in the cab corners before doing anything--even bedliner. Gotta have something solid behind there or it will rust further and peel. 2nd idea if you're into it--Stock-ish height aggressive off-road look: Rather than repairing/replacing the fenders you could do Bushwacker cutout flares. Need wider rims with a lower offset (5" wide flares), so no real money saved vs. rust repair and paint but it would give you a whole fresh look on the truck. Raise the torsion bars a tiny bit in front to level or a bit nose high--not extreme Cali-lean, but just a bit is ok in my book. I can get you pricing on the flares, but I don't ever get to MN so we'd have to ship or meet in the middle somewhere. Some nice 18-20" diameter wider rims with just-over-stock height off road tires would be great on that thing. 3rd idea if you've ever wanted a lowered truck: I lowered my 4x4 '96 Tahoe that happens to have that identical interior minus the pass air bag. I'm at 210k miles on mine and drive it every day. Mine started as high as yours and now my frame is 6" off the ground. Rear flip kit, new front keys, shocks, custom bump stops f&r, and rear air helpers on mine. 4x4 still works fine and I push a SnowSport plow with a front hitch and pull my boat with it regularly. It gets through the snow just fine, it looks hammered but it's really not any lower than a stock sedan. It's expensive and does nothing for you as far as body repair, but it's the look I'm personally into so I thought I'd throw it out there. As mentioned, really nice interior on that truck. Outside is workable definitely, just have to decide which direction to go. And I do agree with build the truck vs. your newer Tahoe that you have put limitations on, especially if you'll never be happy staying within them. Keep updating, love to see what you end up with. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trayten Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Definitely go with the truck, sounds like you wanna go bigger and that's not happening in your Tahoe, so truck it is Definitely tuned for the build Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 I'm sorry but after gutting ALL the interior, installing 2 bulk packs of Damp pro, using up 8 cans of expanda foam, plasti-dipping all the rear windows (2 cans, can't see in or out), and a few other things in preparation, I actually ended up abandoning going that route. =( Ended up just re-installing all interior and making it back to completely bone stock again. Kind of a waste of time and money but oh-well. I took pics. along the way but have since deleted them since it would be pointless to post them. Sorry to all interested in this build. I will prolly just end up selling this truck since I'm not going to do anything with it and invest that money into something else audio related hopefully. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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