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The issue is where an exposed cut edge is. The cut edge will soak up paint like no other[/quote

That is why you need a professional sanding sealer. Even on exposed edges. You must sand with fine sand paper between coats also. May take more then 2 coats of sealer

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I usually use body filler and feather it out, prime and paint.

Damn does that look good

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  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

When I do a small setup I can get by with joint compound, the stuff you use on drywall, BUT instead of using bondo on the end grain of your mdf you can take wood glue and thin it out with water like 50:50, when you thin it out me wood soaks it up more and goes down inside of the wood, so that way when you do your final sand you dont sand your body filler back down to the wood grain and you arent left with and ugly spot on your finished box!

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I've noticed that a few good coats of primer goes a long way, especially with colors. I just used some old killz that was laying around and it worked great

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i have done more than my fair share of body and paint work over the years. personally, i'd try and talk you into spending just a little more money.

to start off (like others have said) scuff sand the entire box and get any filler work done.

then id lay down 3-4 coats of mar hyde 2k high build primer (or something similair).

block that down good. then a coat of some sort of 2 part sealer primer.

Then i would use either a 2 part enamel ( such as dupont Centari or one of the cheaper 2 part single stage urethane paints)

the biggest reason i would suggest going this route is the fact your project will turn out better and stay looking nice for a lot longer.

Sure it is a little more money,but, i do think you will thank yourself in the end.

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another trick for sealing up end grain in to take a simple 2 part epoxy and (wearing gloves) work the epoxy into the end grain.

it does take a little time to work it in there good, but, will do a wonderful job of sealing the end grain up.

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