slick006 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Time to start a build log! The last time I had a system other than factory was about 7 years ago, and I built a new one every year or so for the 10 years prior to that. So I am not new to car audio, but I have never tried a build this large before. My main goal was to put together a system that no one around my area has done before and to have a lot of fun with my kids building it. With that said, I bought a '99 Ford Expedition with the intent to wall it off. I will be doing a C pillar design because I want to keep the back seats so that I can take my kits with me to shows and things like that. The build will include: 4 sets - SKAR Audio SPX-65C 2 - D7500 & 1 - D6500 from XS Power KW-AV71BT head unit from JVC 0 gauge, 4 gauge, 8 gauge, speaker wire, remote wire, terminal connectors, fuses with holders all from Sky High Audio Sound Deadener from NVX RCA cables from NVX 3Sixty.3 from Rockford Fosgate 2 - alternator from local dealer, claims 200 amps at idle. Alternator install kit from Nations Starts and Alternator to mount 2 alternators in the Expedition Oh yes and... 4 - DC Audio Level 6 18" subs 4 - DC Audio 5.0K amps 1 - DC Audio 175.4 amp Which all got shipped last week from DC Audio by the sounds of it, so I will have some pictures of those soon Shipping weight? 532 pounds! I have taken a lot of measurements and after removing all the panels and components that I don't need it looks like I can 38 cubic foot box gross. So after having a 3" front baffle and 2" everywhere else, with a ton of bracing I should come in around 28 1/4 cubic feet on the inside after removing volume for port and subs and bracing. Right now it looks like it should be tuned to around 36.5 Hz with a 10" port, but that can be changed yet. What do you guys think I should tune it to, I am doing this for music and demos really, not thinking of metering and running in competitions right now. Have a look at the box wall here, it is designed to be symmetrical, so the space on the sides is actually for my heater/ AC unit on the drivers side. From a suggestion I think I will plumb the AC to the back and use it to keep the amps nice and cool. Let me know what you guys think. Let the build begin. And this is some of what will be going into the Expedition Power cable, Speaker wire, Ring terminals, fuses and remote turn on all from Sky High Car Audio 2 - D7500 and 1 - D6500 from XS Power along with a new head unit form JVC as well as RCA's from NVX Audio 4 sets of components from Skar Audio A little bit of sound Deadener from NVX and a 3Sixty.3 from Rockford Fosgate Time to start taking apart the insides A little bit of spray foam in the roof channels to help eliminate the vibrating The headliner is full of holes so I will not be reusing it, so I made sure to mark how far down it comes so that when I put on the side panels that they will cover and fit nicely. I will most likely be fiber glassing the ceiling to the vinyl panels that cover the pillars, but if someone has another option or suggestion I am open to it. Started Laying down some sound Deadener last night while waiting for the spray foam to set up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motorboat KER Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I am definelty staying tuned! Looks awesome man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Could replace the fabric on the headliner. It's fairly easy. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick006 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Could replace the fabric on the headliner. It's fairly easy. how would you do it so that you don't see all the areas where there is no backing? This Expedition had the roof mounted rear heating and AC controls as well as the rear window controls and the trip and outdoor temp sensor all mounting up there. I would like to reuse it if possible, just not sure how to do that and make it look right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 go to a craft store and pick up some thin foam padding and enough fabric of your choice. use a spray adhesive to glue it to it. the hardest part is taking the time to get the wrinkles out. I suggest a thicker but light weight fabric. suede and fleece works great. if where the switched/vent or anything have parts that bump out then I would cut them off and glue some cardboard to the back side of the headliner to help fill in the whole. then glue the think padding and then the fabric. don't have to use padding, was just suggesting it to help hide the holes. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick006 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 go to a craft store and pick up some thin foam padding and enough fabric of your choice. use a spray adhesive to glue it to it. the hardest part is taking the time to get the wrinkles out. I suggest a thicker but light weight fabric. suede and fleece works great. if where the switched/vent or anything have parts that bump out then I would cut them off and glue some cardboard to the back side of the headliner to help fill in the whole. then glue the think padding and then the fabric. don't have to use padding, was just suggesting it to help hide the holes. Yeah this liner is full of holes, and the one in the front where the roof mounted counsel was is pretty large I'll maybe give it a shot and see how it turns out. What do others do when they do a build this size, do you pull out all the lights and roof mounted stuff or how to do you keep it all up there nice and tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I think most people leave it and wait for it to brake for bragging right lol t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 MAybe if you get time, you could post up pics of those alternators- I'd me curious to see what your local guy is using to make 200 amps at idle. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-eazy Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I'm tuned in. .. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 A Pile of Nice Equipment! Tuned in for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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