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What would be more beneficial to me ?


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Wait, you drop like 2 volts?!?

Read my sig, I'm running over 4k on a 30a smaller alt and 34aH less in battery reserve. At IDLE, I drop to 12.9 at a min from 14.6ish volts full tilt after a full song.

Of course impedance rise plays a role, but that big of a role? Ehh..

What are your subs wired to, impedance wise? Check that voltage with a DMM.

What are your current grounds like?

I'm concerned.

Grounds are clean to the chassis. I can see my reflection in the grounds lol.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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I don't think those batteries are meant to be used in a car, let alone car audio. resting voltage of 12.0v?

 

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Somethings not right man. I ran soundstream rubicon 2500 on a 120amp alt, small ass kinetik under the back seat and deka agm group 78 battery up front and barely dropped to what you do. That was with a 4channel too. Plus that soundstream is probably no where near as efficient as your amp.

Maybe take the batteries out and try, then try the grounds...maybe process of elimination. Maybe loos connection at alt. IDK just doesnt seem right.

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I don't think those batteries are meant to be used in a car, let alone car audio. resting voltage of 12.0v?

No no, resting voltage of like 12.5 - 12.6.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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Somethings not right man. I ran soundstream rubicon 2500 on a 120amp alt, small ass kinetik under the back seat and deka agm group 78 battery up front and barely dropped to what you do. That was with a 4channel too. Plus that soundstream is probably no where near as efficient as your amp.

Maybe take the batteries out and try, then try the grounds...maybe process of elimination. Maybe loos connection at alt. IDK just doesnt seem right.

That's what I'm sayin. I have a 4 channel too, but I don't think that makes THAT much of a difference.

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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Just because a grounding location is clean. I had a clean ground bolted with lock washers and everything correct. Was dropping 12.1 with a Skar 2500 with electrical in my signature. Now with a proper ground I hold over 13.4v on the same electrical on 4k amp at .5 nominal.

Good grounds ftw.

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Just because a grounding location is clean. I had a clean ground bolted with lock washers and everything correct. Was dropping 12.1 with a Skar 2500 with electrical in my signature. Now with a proper ground I hold over 13.4v on the same electrical on 4k amp at .5 nominal.

Good grounds ftw.

My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee

My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37

My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/

2016 Mazda 6 Touring

JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction

B2 prototype DSP 6to8

B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set

2 B2 Class H quattro's

1 B2 Zero.5R @.5

2 B2 HNv3 12 d2

B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk

Northstar Group 35 under the hood

100ft 2/0 welding cable

30ft 4ga welding cable

20ft 8ga welding cable

All stinger OFC speaker wire

Soundrive custom RCA's

Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?

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The batteries you linked are sealed lead acid not agm. I would replace them with some even 1 good agm such as a xp or xs 3100

Would that really make that big of a difference ? Charge and resting voltage are the same.

Just because a grounding location is clean. I had a clean ground bolted with lock washers and everything correct. Was dropping 12.1 with a Skar 2500 with electrical in my signature. Now with a proper ground I hold over 13.4v on the same electrical on 4k amp at .5 nominal.

Good grounds ftw.

What would be a good idea on how to properly ground the batts and amp ? I would rather not drill a hole in my floor to ground to the frame or anything like that if I don't have to .. Lol

Current setup in my 96 Hoe

Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs.

Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets)

Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front.

Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's

Alt - Singer 330A

Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets

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I'd add a second pos and double up the neg to where you have it now. You might not need it but It definitely couldn't hurt. I agree you don't need to run a neg from the front though.

Okay, so I have a mechman "260" amp alt, 850 cca agm batt up front, big 3 done, and 2 92 ah cell tower back up batterys in back. Would it be more beneficial for me to add a 2nd run of positive from alt to rear batts, or do a run of negative from the negative of front batt to rear batt negative ? Oh sub amp is dc 2k and I only drop to like 12.5-12.6 at idle wangin away at full tilt on a dc lvl5 18.

I certainly would not run a second run off the alternator. The stud IS NOT a good distribution point to run to the back of the vehicle. That will cause the regulator to overheat and become LESS efficient. I would run a larger cable to the front battery and then distribute from there. The ground is totally up to you if you want or feel the need to run it. otherwise I would make certain it is clean and tight

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