JeepAndBassXJ Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 I use t-nuts to bolt my subs into my box and after pulling the subs in and out a number of times I have had a few t-nuts back out of the wood and just spin. Once they start spinning I can't get the bolts out with out drilling the heads off and letting the t-nut and bolt shank fall back into the box to be retrieved once the sub is out again. So I need help on figuring out how to avoid this in the future and what would be the best way to replace the t-nuts being the wood is mangled up where the old t-nuts were. Any suggestions? YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/ My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw
DubNDodge Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 Don't use t nuts, or super glue/some other type of strong adhesive. I used t nuts as well, but I realize they were overkill. I got lucky when I swapped subs out, none of them came out. But I superglued the back when I put the other subs in so I wouldn't have that issue. Next time I build a box, t nuts will not be used just for that reason. '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult.
JeepAndBassXJ Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Posted February 23, 2014 I liked them up until now, I figure they are better than just screwing into the wood because the wood would strip faster. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/ My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw
SnowDrifter Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 X2 I hate t nuts for this reason. No need to. Spax #14 multi material construction screw. Get them at your local home depot. Never seen one break or strip out ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
JeepAndBassXJ Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Posted February 23, 2014 That would be awesome but I just realized that I have ~1/4" holes from the t-nuts in the box so no screws will thread into that. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/ My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw
Jessica Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 Cut a spacer the same size as the cutout for the sub but make it about 1" or 2" wide. Cut it in half. Glue the two halves to the back side of the baffle. Presto, you now have a place to run screws into. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13
alaskanzx5 Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 reuse the tnuts and glue them in place. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
mbdblue Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 if your worried about T-nuts back out, you can double baffle the next box and put them in between the 2 baffles. I worry about using construction screws on a metal frame sub because most of them are countersunk and can widen the holes if you crank down on them....It may not be realistic, but it's definitely something I consider. After Snowdrifter's suggestion, I checked out Spax's website and it looks like they make a pan head too. I would definitely go with that over a countersunk. http://www.spax.us/en/multi-material-construction-screws/unidrive-pan-head But to fix your problem now, you may just have to rip the old baffle off, and make a new one; or you could just add a baffle. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
JeepAndBassXJ Posted February 23, 2014 Author Report Posted February 23, 2014 I want to save this box, I have like $200 into it also its a band pass so working on it is a little cramped and the baffle is inside. But I like the idea of putting them between the baffles, and cutting some trim rings for the back side would act like another baffle so maybe ill do that. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/ My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw
Tarball Posted February 23, 2014 Report Posted February 23, 2014 Here is what I did with my t-nuts First - don't buy the cheap ones. Get stainless steel t-nuts Second - when mounting on the pre-drilled hole use CA glue on the tnut Third - tighten the bolt into it so the it is clamped in place while it dries. An empty basket comes in handy here. Be sure not to get glue on the threads CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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