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I would start with the front door speakers. Something that has a good freq range (like 60hz-20khz) so that you get good mid bass response upfront. 100-200 watts power door will work fine. Could even go with less.

As for the sub stage I would aim for 500-1k watts. Single 12 or 2 12s. Tuned around 35hz. Maybe get help with box design so that you know it will have a nice freq range so that your don't have any gaps.

Check the for sale section on this forum. Should be able to find good deals on great stuff.

Single agm battery and big 3 should be ok for the budget.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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So here is my recommendation: (I could make a whole list of different drivers and amps but I just decided to use these based on what I think you want and will work best for you.)

Front stage: Focal 165A1 (components) ($240)

Rear doors and third row: 2xFocal 165CA1 (coaxials. I know you said you wanted to do components, but in this case I don't think the extra money is worth it.) ($120x2=$240)

Mid/high amp: Rockford R400-4 (Run the front 2 channels to the front components, and run the back door and third row coaxials in parallel on the rear 2 channels. This will give you 75 to the front and 50 to each of the back doors and the third row. This is fine because you want the staging to be up front anyway.) ($160)

Sub: Sundown E12 ($110)

Sub amp: Rockford R750-1 ($210)

Total of $960 (before wires and deadening. I would probably get a better or second battery too.)

I tried my best. Every build is different and every person has different tastes, but I think that if I understood you then these components will get it done. I think you are going to be hard pressed to find a better sounding system for the same money. No it wont be the loudest and some people think (myself included) that the focal tweeters are a little bright but they can be toned down ( I think my JL tweeters are too bright too so like I said, different tastes). If you don't go with my suggestions, I'll try not to cry too much, but like I said, this is what I recommend for you and I put a fair amount of time in making sure everything would work well together.

Now all that being said, the install will be what makes or breaks any system.

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So here is my recommendation: (I could make a whole list of different drivers and amps but I just decided to use these based on what I think you want and will work best for you.)

Front stage: Focal 165A1 (components) ($240)

Rear doors and third row: 2xFocal 165CA1 (coaxials. I know you said you wanted to do components, but in this case I don't think the extra money is worth it.) ($120x2=$240)

Mid/high amp: Rockford R400-4 (Run the front 2 channels to the front components, and run the back door and third row coaxials in parallel on the rear 2 channels. This will give you 75 to the front and 50 to each of the back doors and the third row. This is fine because you want the staging to be up front anyway.) ($160)

Sub: Sundown E12 ($110)

Sub amp: Rockford R750-1 ($210)

Total of $960 (before wires and deadening. I would probably get a better or second battery too.)

I tried my best. Every build is different and every person has different tastes, but I think that if I understood you then these components will get it done. I think you are going to be hard pressed to find a better sounding system for the same money. No it wont be the loudest and some people think (myself included) that the focal tweeters are a little bright but they can be toned down ( I think my JL tweeters are too bright too so like I said, different tastes). If you don't go with my suggestions, I'll try not to cry too much, but like I said, this is what I recommend for you and I put a fair amount of time in making sure everything would work well together.

Now all that being said, the install will be what makes or breaks any system.

Sounds like a great setup! I will research all that you have suggested.

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I would start off with making sure that you have that second battery installed on the driver's side under your hood ...

And get you a Stock Alternator off of a 3500 series vehicle similar with the 454 engine ...

... And upgrade your wiring in the process to 0ga of course ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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The only thing I would look at changing out of his recondition would be the sub. Now nothing is wrong with sundowns E series but I would at least look in to soundqubed for the sub and amp's there great products and are cheaper then most brands. You can get there hds200 line 12 for $89 or bump it up to the hds300 line 12 for $140. Now it seems there amps are about on par with RF Prime series amps which are still great amps (I run the prime 1200).

Just another brand for you to look at also but no matter which one you chose there both great companies.

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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I'm also thinking about adding speakers to the back cargo doors. Maybe 8" for mid bass? Trying to save as much room as possible in the back for cargo space. I would like to have a good sound stage. More SQ than SPL.

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All brands listed so far sound good IMO but if I was doing more of a sq build I would get the sundown X10 for sub

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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Look around for sq and SQL build logs on this forum. You will find some good info. Sq is all about positioning and a clean signal. Better equipment helps but even the best can sound like shit if not placed right and poor planning.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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