P4killer_ Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Im having a small issue with my alt. It was suggested to me to change the pulley to the OEM pulley. It sounds like a great idea and will almost certainly sort me out. Im gonna use my brand new impact and I can borrow a puller from autozone if needed. Should be very straight forward. Any tips or anything beforehand?? Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneerchuck Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Sometimes it's easier to do it with the alt in a vise due to restrictions in the engine bay. Depending on what kind of alt you have will determine what tools you'll need and whether or not you'll be able to torque the bolt or not. Having an air gun will help on some alts. On others youll need to get some tools to engage the alt shaft and the pulley shaft and then just use 2 wrenches to remove the pulley. If you have an alt that requires the bolt to be torqued, a good point to torque to is about 50-60 ft/lbs. Also clean the shaft threads before installing the new pulley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 I just read you just hold the pulley tight with a rag and an impact whips it right off np. And a puller may be required if its pressed onto the shaft. Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Apparantly there is a spacer on the stock unit. Which is indeed my issue I believe. The new unit doesnt have that space and that small amount of misalignment is causing belt wear. I found the procedure which just says remove nut, pulley then spacer. Would the spacer be swappable? Because Id like to keep the smaller pulley if thatd work.. No alternator rebuilding experience here :/ 4. Remvoe the nut, pully(A) and spacer. heres the link btw, if anyone has an elantra or kia it may be of some help idk http://www.hemanual.org/alternator_repair_procedures-2360.html Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Pull your alt out, bring it to a shop. Grab one of the techs, slip them a $5 and call it good. Or DIY if you have an impact gun ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 I have a cordless impact it might work. I have the stock out obvi. If i can get the pulley off that, then i could get it off the new one. If not then yea ill just run it up to a shop when ever i have time. I just wanna get some tips before i do it tomorrow is all. I know nothing of pulley removal and such. Is there a reset procedure for the alt once the pullies are swapped? Ive seen that in a few videos about turning it 2 turns CW then 1/4 CCW obvi for a dif unit but hey idkkk Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted April 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 I swapped the pulley today. The stock pulley is much latger than the EA one easilly 1/2 in larger dia. The spacer fits but the smaller aluminum pulley will not fit properly using the spacer. Instead of like the stock pulley, which has a concave center which sits around the spacer not directly on top of it, the aluminum one has kind of a built in spacer onto one end. But it isnt enough as shown in the pix. So I put the stock pulley and spacer on. Everything runs fine. The only problem being that now at idle my ouput must be like zero Any rpm below 1k I fall straight to battery resting voltage and at a stop light, my voltage will fall to 12.4 ish. As soon as I hit the gas even any tiny bit its straight back to 14.4.. At cold start the car will idle a little higher and run fine with all acc turned on. 14.5v Once it warms up idle drops to 850 or so and I go straight to resting voltage. Ill double check tension etc but in the event that doesnt help could I order a stock style puller just smaller dia or a more spaced one etc etc. Ideas? Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Thats expected as the alternator spins MUCH slower.. which means less output. You need to rev her up now to get any real power. Shit, wouldn't surprise me if the alt doesnt even turn on at idle. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Just to clarify what i mean.. With the larger pulley on, the alternator spins slower at any given engine speed compared to with the smaller overdrive pulley. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParDeus Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Jones racing pulleys. We're a WD with them, but, I'm playing hell as is trying to get SnowDrifter his. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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