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Can you order a custom pulley? where?


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Im having a small issue with my alt. It was suggested to me to change the pulley to the OEM pulley. It sounds like a great idea and will almost certainly sort me out.

Im gonna use my brand new impact and I can borrow a puller from autozone if needed. Should be very straight forward.

Any tips or anything beforehand??

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Sometimes it's easier to do it with the alt in a vise due to restrictions in the engine bay. Depending on what kind of alt you have will determine what tools you'll need and whether or not you'll be able to torque the bolt or not. Having an air gun will help on some alts. On others youll need to get some tools to engage the alt shaft and the pulley shaft and then just use 2 wrenches to remove the pulley. If you have an alt that requires the bolt to be torqued, a good point to torque to is about 50-60 ft/lbs. Also clean the shaft threads before installing the new pulley

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I just read you just hold the pulley tight with a rag and an impact whips it right off np. And a puller may be required if its pressed onto the shaft.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Apparantly there is a spacer on the stock unit. Which is indeed my issue I believe. The new unit doesnt have that space and that small amount of misalignment is causing belt wear.

I found the procedure which just says remove nut, pulley then spacer. Would the spacer be swappable? Because Id like to keep the smaller pulley if thatd work..

No alternator rebuilding experience here :/

4.

Remvoe the nut, pully(A) and spacer.

sunee6004d.gif

heres the link btw, if anyone has an elantra or kia it may be of some help idk

http://www.hemanual.org/alternator_repair_procedures-2360.html

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Pull your alt out, bring it to a shop. Grab one of the techs, slip them a $5 and call it good.

Or DIY if you have an impact gun

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I have a cordless impact it might work. I have the stock out obvi. If i can get the pulley off that, then i could get it off the new one. If not then yea ill just run it up to a shop when ever i have time. I just wanna get some tips before i do it tomorrow is all. I know nothing of pulley removal and such. Is there a reset procedure for the alt once the pullies are swapped? Ive seen that in a few videos about turning it 2 turns CW then 1/4 CCW obvi for a dif unit but hey idkkk

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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I swapped the pulley today. The stock pulley is much latger than the EA one easilly 1/2 in larger dia. The spacer fits but the smaller aluminum pulley will not fit properly using the spacer. Instead of like the stock pulley, which has a concave center which sits around the spacer not directly on top of it, the aluminum one has kind of a built in spacer onto one end.

But it isnt enough as shown in the pix.

So I put the stock pulley and spacer on. Everything runs fine. The only problem being that now at idle my ouput must be like zero

Any rpm below 1k I fall straight to battery resting voltage and at a stop light, my voltage will fall to 12.4 ish. As soon as I hit the gas even any tiny bit its straight back to 14.4..

At cold start the car will idle a little higher and run fine with all acc turned on. 14.5v

Once it warms up idle drops to 850 or so and I go straight to resting voltage. Ill double check tension etc but in the event that doesnt help could I order a stock style puller just smaller dia or a more spaced one etc etc.

Ideas?

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Thats expected as the alternator spins MUCH slower.. which means less output. You need to rev her up now to get any real power. Shit, wouldn't surprise me if the alt doesnt even turn on at idle.

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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Just to clarify what i mean.. With the larger pulley on, the alternator spins slower at any given engine speed compared to with the smaller overdrive pulley.

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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