Shop said they dont use DD1 or Oscope to tune. they do it by ear. Should i trust them?

[SWIFT]

I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark.

For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage?

[TCooper]

It has been a long while since I had anything installed by a shop so totally amazed reading this post!

But, guess I should not be surprised after watching that install fix by Steve on YouTube.

This day and age you would think that most all shops would have some sort of equipment. It is like stepping back into the 1980's. I guess it comes down to the "get them in, get them out" mentality that probably works on the majority of installs.

This is also why when I read reviews on some websites about amps or subs you get the comments like: "this amp is bas ass, it has already blown 4 subs and now I'm buying 4 more to handle the power" and "these subs suck! Only lasted a month and I'm on my second pair..."

Yes I've set by ear way back when, but have not done so in years.

OP- I'd really look close at the shops install if you truly need someone to do the work for you. More than just the pretty outer panels. See if you can hang around the shop and get friendly enough to see the way they run wires (is it a neat job with quality equipment or a slapped together rat's nest), make connections, build boxes etc. etc. Just look at the quality overall and make your decision based on that. Then when all done you could just invest in your own test equipment if you want. Cheap enough really.

[kingsuv]

I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark.

For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage?

What I do is set the deck, then amp to achieve its max clean signal. Having dynamic headroom past the speakers 75w rating does not mean its going to go poof at 76w. It also doesn't mean you can hammer full tilt just because it is a clean signal. At some point you have to use common sense. When i run a component set active, I typically will need to turn the gain down on the tweeter channels to match the level of the system as a whole.

[kingsuv]

You also have to consider crossover points for the selected driver.

[SWIFT]

I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark.

For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage?

What I do is set the deck, then amp to achieve its max clean signal. Having dynamic headroom past the speakers 75w rating does not mean its going to go poof at 76w. It also doesn't mean you can hammer full tilt just because it is a clean signal. At some point you have to use common sense. When i run a component set active, I typically will need to turn the gain down on the tweeter channels to match the level of the system as a whole.

That was my point exactly, common sense has always worked very well for me. LOL

[n8ball2013]

Common sense only works if you have a ceiling with which to cap it at. By finding ypur maximum clean output you know have a way to work back from. Without that its a guess.

[gr8handogoatness]

So I didn't read the whole thread.

Setting gains is not synonymous with competing. Setting gains properly is jus that, SETTING GAINS PROPERLY. In other words it's the right way to set gains as opposed to the ghetto way.

Duct tape can keep the speakers in your doors, why use screws?

[ParDeus]

Personally, I gave away my dd1. Not because I didn't like it; I helped out someone who couldn't afford to buy one.

For me, setting at 40hz unloaded just wasnt cutting it. I checked everything after I used the dd1, by using a scope with the subs connected, and playing a long sweep. Things looked very different.

The dd1 is a great tool. For me, though, the oscope has more utility.

Also, you can't say "don't trust a shop if they don't have a dd1 or oscope". I know a few shop owners who are extremely competent, yet don't use either. For spl, they tune with the TermLab, and for customers, they tune so that it can't be fucked up. Most of the time, installs for the general public are far underpowered, and a little bit of clipping won't hurt a thing.

[ParDeus]

Addendum to the above-Most shops are retard playpens, and should be forced to use a dd1 to prevent fucking up customers shit.

[meade916]

still amazes me how many people STILL don't get it and refuse to see the light. Some asinine statements still being posted.