SWIFT Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark. For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage? 2012 F250 Lariat 6.7, lifted on 22's and 35's 4 DSS Ethos 18's walled tuned low 2 Ampere Audio 7500.1's, Ampere 125.4 Rockford Pro Audio front stage 9 batteries, Mechman Elite 370 alt Team DSS, Team Ampere Audio 2014 Meca Mod 3 TN State champ / 3rd place Mod 3 World Finals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TCooper Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 It has been a long while since I had anything installed by a shop so totally amazed reading this post! But, guess I should not be surprised after watching that install fix by Steve on YouTube. This day and age you would think that most all shops would have some sort of equipment. It is like stepping back into the 1980's. I guess it comes down to the "get them in, get them out" mentality that probably works on the majority of installs. This is also why when I read reviews on some websites about amps or subs you get the comments like: "this amp is bas ass, it has already blown 4 subs and now I'm buying 4 more to handle the power" and "these subs suck! Only lasted a month and I'm on my second pair..." Yes I've set by ear way back when, but have not done so in years. OP- I'd really look close at the shops install if you truly need someone to do the work for you. More than just the pretty outer panels. See if you can hang around the shop and get friendly enough to see the way they run wires (is it a neat job with quality equipment or a slapped together rat's nest), make connections, build boxes etc. etc. Just look at the quality overall and make your decision based on that. Then when all done you could just invest in your own test equipment if you want. Cheap enough really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark. For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage? What I do is set the deck, then amp to achieve its max clean signal. Having dynamic headroom past the speakers 75w rating does not mean its going to go poof at 76w. It also doesn't mean you can hammer full tilt just because it is a clean signal. At some point you have to use common sense. When i run a component set active, I typically will need to turn the gain down on the tweeter channels to match the level of the system as a whole. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 You also have to consider crossover points for the selected driver. Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWIFT Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 I can understand that using equipment may be best for gain matching two amps that do not strap. But other than that ear and senses has always been the way I have set all gains. I bought a DD-1 and used it twice. The first time was using it to set the gains on my 5500's and my PWX 150.4. The 5500's ended up exactly where I had had them set previously by ear. The 4 channel had to be backed down because if I used the settings it told me to I would have smoked the tweeters because the amp was rated at much more power than the tweeters would allow. The second time was used on a seperate install that the gains had to be backed down or it would have over powered the subs the person had so after that I sold it because I didnt see the need for the DD1. Maybe for setting the headunit max volume but I have always used the 80% rule when doing that. Head unit maxes out at say volume 62, well I would set gains with it at the 52-55 mark. For the guys that preach these devices what do you all do in that case? You have a component set rated at 75rms, but you have a 150rms 4 channel, are you still taking the gains to full potential based on your DD1 or are you using a true rms clamp meter to set voltage? What I do is set the deck, then amp to achieve its max clean signal. Having dynamic headroom past the speakers 75w rating does not mean its going to go poof at 76w. It also doesn't mean you can hammer full tilt just because it is a clean signal. At some point you have to use common sense. When i run a component set active, I typically will need to turn the gain down on the tweeter channels to match the level of the system as a whole. That was my point exactly, common sense has always worked very well for me. LOL 2012 F250 Lariat 6.7, lifted on 22's and 35's 4 DSS Ethos 18's walled tuned low 2 Ampere Audio 7500.1's, Ampere 125.4 Rockford Pro Audio front stage 9 batteries, Mechman Elite 370 alt Team DSS, Team Ampere Audio 2014 Meca Mod 3 TN State champ / 3rd place Mod 3 World Finals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Common sense only works if you have a ceiling with which to cap it at. By finding ypur maximum clean output you know have a way to work back from. Without that its a guess. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8handogoatness Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 So I didn't read the whole thread. Setting gains is not synonymous with competing. Setting gains properly is jus that, SETTING GAINS PROPERLY. In other words it's the right way to set gains as opposed to the ghetto way. Duct tape can keep the speakers in your doors, why use screws? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParDeus Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Personally, I gave away my dd1. Not because I didn't like it; I helped out someone who couldn't afford to buy one. For me, setting at 40hz unloaded just wasnt cutting it. I checked everything after I used the dd1, by using a scope with the subs connected, and playing a long sweep. Things looked very different. The dd1 is a great tool. For me, though, the oscope has more utility. Also, you can't say "don't trust a shop if they don't have a dd1 or oscope". I know a few shop owners who are extremely competent, yet don't use either. For spl, they tune with the TermLab, and for customers, they tune so that it can't be fucked up. Most of the time, installs for the general public are far underpowered, and a little bit of clipping won't hurt a thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParDeus Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Addendum to the above-Most shops are retard playpens, and should be forced to use a dd1 to prevent fucking up customers shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 still amazes me how many people STILL don't get it and refuse to see the light. Some asinine statements still being posted. All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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