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Ever wire a 1 ohm stable amp to 0.5 ohm?


JEFFYBOI

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Lol, what's funny was the dude that had it hooked up was running like 8 gauge or some shit and it was fused and the fuse popped and melted. I'll be real with you, I fucked around and put some speaker wire in the fuse holder and kept it moving. I sold the car a couple weeks later anyways. Ghetto shit.

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As far as the voiding warranty post above (tried quote, but too much of a nooby to get it to work lol), don't know if companies still do, but I remember seeing some that would give you full warranty if installed by a authorized shop and something like 90 days only for equipment that was not. Could not tell you the brands etc. as it has been ages. Guess just a matter of reading the fine print on the warranty on anything you are interested in just to be sure what was what.

Some companies, I would imagine, will claim abuse and maybe not warranty an amp that fried. Depends on the company.

Myself, not wired below 1 ohm, but have on occasion wired a lower ohm than an amp was wired for. This was back in the dark ages when I was doing some competing and classes were determined by your amp power rating (yes been that long). Anymore, too much of a worry wart AND can't afford the potential risk if the amp does decide to fry, so just buy to power needed at the ohm I'm going to run and build the electrical to support it.

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It's also not just equipment, electrical, install quality...Lots of running below spec is about the person controlling the volume knob as well. You can let the god of installing do your install and an idiot can blow it up quickly.

 

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LMAO, like the dude in my subforum, blew his kx1200.1 or whatever (some kicker that's only 2-ohm stable). It was installed by a shop, tuned with a aerometer. I tried explaining to him how gains work and how the electricals of the GS is... He doesn't seem to take my advice.

Now he's looking to buy a hifonics amp on stock electricals *YUCK*.

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But would'nt box rise- rise the load to like 0.8 or so when wired down to 0.5? Usually equaling the 1 ohm rated power? So wiring down to 0.5 will give you 1? Or am I way off?

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But would'nt box rise- rise the load to like 0.8 or so when wired down to 0.5? Usually equaling the 1 ohm rated power? So wiring down to 0.5 will give you 1? Or am I way off?

I'm not sure what a "box" rise is, but what nobody has mentioned here yet is impedance curve.

I'm willing to bet that most of the people who "run half ohm err day" have never seen an impedance graph for their speakers installed and would be surprised to see what impedance their amp was actually seeing at any given frequency.

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But would'nt box rise- rise the load to like 0.8 or so when wired down to 0.5? Usually equaling the 1 ohm rated power? So wiring down to 0.5 will give you 1? Or am I way off?

I'm not sure what a "box" rise is, but what nobody has mentioned here yet is impedance curve.

I'm willing to bet that most of the people who "run half ohm err day" have never seen an impedance graph for their speakers installed and would be surprised to see what impedance their amp was actually seeing at any given frequency.

Mind blown, elaborate?

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You better get that ground connection the best you can.

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Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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