gckless Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 So, building a box for a 24" SHD right now. 10 cubes net tuned at 24Hz, going to be on a DC 5.0k at 1ohm. My question is, do you guys think I can flush mount with the second baffle, or do I need to top mount with the second baffle? Here's a picture with the first baffle on, more in my build log: My thought is that the glue is stronger than the wood and the baffle doesn't need to be full length to act as a brace. Even though the bottom layer is the only one holding the sub, the glue is holding the two panels together at every point they are still touching, so the strength difference should be minimal. Reason I ask is because I am staining the top and it would look MUCH better if I could flush mount. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
BigManAC Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 I would think that with such a big sub you would want as much surface area holding the sub up as possible. With only a single sheet that which the sub is affixed to that would create a weak point in the bottom sheet leaving room for failure. your best bet would to be do a double baffle so that the sub sits in two sheets then if you want it flush you can either add a third sheet or make a MDF ring and use body filler to slowly grade it up from the top sheet so that it sits flush. My 0.02 2001 Saturn L200-Sony MEX-BT4100PFRONT STAGE:- (4) Crescendo PWX 6- Cadence XA250.2SUB STAGE:-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)-Crescendo BC2kELECTRICAL:- Singer 240A alt - XS Power D3400- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gaugeBuild Log: Click HereScores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw
gr8handogoatness Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 I think you should be able to flush mount it just fine. Edit: but i do like his idea of a mdf ring and and body filler. Would look sick
gckless Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Posted June 4, 2014 I would think that with such a big sub you would want as much surface area holding the sub up as possible. With only a single sheet that which the sub is affixed to that would create a weak point in the bottom sheet leaving room for failure. your best bet would to be do a double baffle so that the sub sits in two sheets then if you want it flush you can either add a third sheet or make a MDF ring and use body filler to slowly grade it up from the top sheet so that it sits flush. My 0.02 Unfortunately, I can't add a third baffle due to space restrictions. I had the flush ring thought as well, but then I wouldn't be able to stain it, which I want to do to match the amp rack. Maybe I can look into cutting a ring and then hitting it with a 45 degree routing bit on the outside. Not sure if that look is really worth it though. One yea, one nay. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
sprkn_ranger Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 I think you would be fine to flush mount. Worst case scenario you could always put some wood dowels in the box for bracing right around the sub cutout to help support the baffle a bit. (Hope that makes sense) Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 Judging by the screws on either side of the cutout it looks like you have good bracing. I think you would be fine to flush mount as well. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
n8ball2013 Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 Depends on how bad yoy want to smash your fingers. Ive got a weight limit on flush mounting but it has nothing to do with strength lol THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 Depends on how bad yoy want to smash your fingers. Ive got a weight limit on flush mounting but it has nothing to do with strength lol Lol no kidding. I flush mounted a Z.v4 once. Definitely gave me something to think about. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds:
gckless Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Posted June 4, 2014 So I've thought about it, and determined that just doing a double baffle and top mounting would be better because I'd always be worried about it if I did flush. Plus, the finger crushing as mentioned lol. Thanks for the replies! "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
Tecomah Posted June 4, 2014 Report Posted June 4, 2014 Having flush mounted my level six I would say no lol 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows
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