Miguels Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 wouldnt different suspension react different with power? ive never heard different subs in the same box sound good.. maybe they wont cancel each other but one will sound different than the other. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jared420 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Is it a good idea? Who knows, not really. But the bottom line is you aren't playing with a ton of power. Go ahead and run whatever you have for 2 weeks if you can't wait. If you were running more power and pushing the subs limits I wouldn't do it because you risk harming the equipment. Running only 100 something watts to two different subs in separate chambers will be fine for 2 weeks unless you try and max out the gain and bass boost and play full tilt for 2 weeks straight. Two different subs doesn't sound as clean as it should but will it be louder than using just one? Yes it will. The quality of sound won't be there but it will most likely make more noise. Do whatever you want to do and if you use a little common sense about it you won't hurt anything. 2012 silverado ext cab ltz 24" kmc rims AudioQue 2200 Pioneer AppRadio Alpine mrx f35 4 channel Bose mids and highs Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit Yellowtop+stock under hood 0 gauge Knu wire Big 3 4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring) 3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weigel21 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 "chamber isnt shared ... the box separate the ports" This wasn't clear enough for me to fully understand what the enclosure design was, my mistake. "I've" never felt JL subs do all to well being pushed hard, others may agree/disagree, but I feel that much over their ideal rated power causes their output quality to degrade some. A 1000RMS@@ ohm amplifier is perfectly fine, you can set the gain to limit the output to 600-700RMs fairly easily if need be/opting to. Try powering them with 600RMS, 700RMS, 800RMS, 900RMS, 10000RMs and see if they begin to sound a little stressed when the power approaches their thermal limit. @bkolfo4 Cancellation is bound to happen with multiple drivers, I don't care what anyone claims. Yes, the output will be greater with two drivers, but there is still cancellation between them. You have sound wave generating from two separate locations, they are bound to interact with one another. Will the cancellation between them be greater than the combined output, NO, not unless they are wired completely out of phase with one another. Add to this two subs with different T/S parameters and it's bound to be worse. The W3 has a larger Xmax than the W1 (for example), so tell me, how is it they will both move the exact same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Two of the same sub can have issues if they are in different locations. Why would have different amounts if excursion make them cancel? Heck, all 6 drivers in my wall had different excursion just by the non-symmetric design. . . What exactly "cancels"? When I think cancels, I think phase issue. Just because they are different drivers, there should not be a phase issue if they are next to each other. Cones should be moving the same direction at any given time. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krakin Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Two of the same sub can have issues if they are in different locations. Why would have different amounts if excursion make them cancel? Heck, all 6 drivers in my wall had different excursion just by the non-symmetric design. . . What exactly "cancels"? When I think cancels, I think phase issue. Just because they are different drivers, there should not be a phase issue if they are next to each other. Cones should be moving the same direction at any given time. how would different group delays fall into this? I don't see them causing major phase difference, however, I can see a dorm of intermodulation distortion forming quality issues. I wish I had the equipment to test a lot of the questions being asked lately, but I sadly do not.Edit: Also I do know how intermoduler distortion works for a single driver, but I am talking about distortion in the two air pressures by the time they reach the listening area. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 This is another one of those topics that everyone jumps in on with the don't do it answer because that is what they have always heard. They really don't know why you would not do it. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaeton Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 OKAY. from what i collected so far is OP wants to know if its all good to run both w3's. his box looks like this if im not mistaken. it might seem off for a bit because one sub has a little softer suspention since it was used more, but it should even out soon. If op had a w1 and a w3 in this box, then it wouldnt be a problem, it would run and you might get a weird ohm load on 2.3 or somthing because the coils are different, but it should be fine. it would sound like utter shit though. Having a box like this: with two diffrent subs would be the worst. one sub might have a lower ohm and get more power and just push the other sub around like its little bitch. then it would be out of phase, be quite as fuck and still sound like shit. Conclusion: run the same subs all around. 1997 subaru legacy outback Four 15's in a almost wall Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass Optima Yellow top batteries 270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) Lots of Second Skin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phaeton Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 This is another one of those topics that everyone jumps in on with the don't do it answer because that is what they have always heard. They really don't know why you would not do it. we need some logic up in this bitch, mine might be bullshit, but it sounds kinda convincing right? 1997 subaru legacy outback Four 15's in a almost wall Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass Optima Yellow top batteries 270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) Lots of Second Skin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 why don't you run 2 different tires on your car? different bulbs in your headlights? different brake pads on your car??? temporary or not they are not the same sub .... lol ... but its your equipment ... have fun Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 24, 2014 Report Share Posted June 24, 2014 Let me be clear - I would not personally do it, but it does not have the results people think it does. Your examples are funny - really not the apples to apples, but as I thought about it - do you know how many cars run down the road every day with 4 non-matching tires??? If you change one headlight bulb without changing both, you probably are running different ones. Change your front brakes and not the rear??? They still make there way down the road. . . Like I said, I wouldn't do it, but it can be done with good results. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.