Kyblack76 Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Add a relay for your remote wire, there is power going to amps even after vehicle is off (for a split second) Also, as said above that buzzing is normal at or above clipping on the DD-1. I run the same amps as Steve Meade and all 4 of mine do it. Yup, you could add a switch to the remote, and turn it on or off before KEYING the power. It is VERY very common. Google Shut off POP or something... its very common. Quote SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyN Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 if you are at all concerned about the remote turn on just use a relay and you should be good ... maybe a small cap in the remote wire after the relay to slow the turn off Quote 2 12" Jeff Vue Customs 1 set MB Quart FSB 216 in doors1 American Bass 100.1 on sub1 Hertz EP2 on doorsJVC deck IPOD controlStock 105 amp alt DD-1big 3new build in Chevy caviler http://www.stevemead...chevy-cavalier/last set up in the ZX2 http://www.stevemead...-current-build/old build log http://www.stevemead...-1998-ford-zx2/ Gold is the money of kings, silver is the money of gentlemen, debt is the money of slaves. Just my .02c that shop needs keep those doors open so they have to charge for it if people think 10k is a lot then they should get into other hobbies.. like masturbating, cause any hobby cost money to maintain Lol no, I'm smarter than that bro haha. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice..............go fuck yourself lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) Add a relay for your remote wire, there is power going to amps even after vehicle is off (for a split second) Also, as said above that buzzing is normal at or above clipping on the DD-1. I run the same amps as Steve Meade and all 4 of mine do it. EDIT: In theory running 2 things off the remote is fine (IMO) but since you are having the issue just add a relay, if that doesn't work come on back and tell us. Also, even though you could use like 18+ gauge wire for remote maybe you could try using 14 ga. or something also. I noticed when using 18 ga. I have a hell of a time getting my RF amps to grab it, the input for remote is large on these amps so I could prolly run a larger wire. (not anything to do with your problem but meh) Add a relay for your remote wire, there is power going to amps even after vehicle is off (for a split second) Also, as said above that buzzing is normal at or above clipping on the DD-1. I run the same amps as Steve Meade and all 4 of mine do it. Yup, you could add a switch to the remote, and turn it on or off before KEYING the power. It is VERY very common. Google Shut off POP or something... its very common. Where can I get a relay. I'm aware of what they do but are they pricey? Edited July 27, 2014 by Syphlyn Quote Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomaguy1 Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Auto parts store Radioshack Quote Team Flex Issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Auto parts store Radioshack I'll also be adding a volt meter which is run off the remote wires. So relay is the way to go for sure? Are they hard to wire in? Quote Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Owner of this site is member here on the forum and one of the most knowledgeable guys on this and has written books. http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/turnonrelaykits.html Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syphlyn Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Owner of this site is member here on the forum and one of the most knowledgeable guys on this and has written books. http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/turnonrelaykits.html Those look excellent might just pick up one of those. Probably will have to be the second fancy one as I can't fit anything more behind my Head unit. Quote Syphlyns 2000 F150 4.6L V8 H/U: Kendwood KDC-X898 Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-68 Speakers 4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX-F4 Sub: Sundown Zv4 12 Sub Amp: Sundown SAZ-2000D Box: 2.75 Cu Ft @ 31Hz Alternator: Mechman 250A elite series Wiring: All KnuKoncepz 0 gauge OFC + KnuKonceptz Krystal RCAs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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