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How reliable is setting gain with a multimeter?


csermonet47

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Thanks for the link! Sadly, not a single person is located in my state LOL. I think for now, the DMM method will suffice. I did a little googling(should have before I made this thread) and from what I've read, the DMM method is probably causing me to be underpowered. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing I suppose. May have to purchase a DD1 some day, just can't afford it right now.

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The DMM method will NEVER let you know where distortion or clipping occurs at your source (head unit), and therefore there is no accurate way to set your gains after that without knowing where you potentially have clipped/distorted signal.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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the whole 75% or 80% volume thing is a myth due to the fact that most headunits shouldnt distort at that percentage of their max volume.

But this is not always true on some cheaper headunits, or even nicer headunits that your still using the internal amplifier on..

Sure you could set the gain at that percentage, however chances are highly unlikely that you will be getting the full pre out voltage from your headunit, which would result in a much higher gain setting needed to compensate for the lesser rca preout voltage.

But now your back to square one with not only being able to tell when your headunit starts to distort, but the amplifier as well.

So your best bet to set your gain using the volumes maximum undistorted volume, but you wont find that out using a digital multimeter.

Maybe if you had a high quality oscilloscope with a nice resolution screen you could tell when the head unit distorts but at that point your cheaper off buying a SMD DD-1

 

 

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thanks for all the helpful responses guys. I am going to do some more fiddling and see what I can get it to sound like. My head unit is fairly decent I believe, its a Dynavin unit for the e39 BMW. For those that are interested, it has Infinity Kappa components in the front running off a JL XD200/2, Infinity Reference components in the rear running off the head unit, and a Boston 12.5LF running off the MB Quart. I plan on getting a Soundstream RUB1600 to run the Boston, and a Soundstream RUB2.250 for the rear speakers. Also going to replace all the wiring that was done by the previous owner, he was using the stock speaker wire, and 8g for the power and grounds. The install was definitely ghetto rigged, so just want to get it all done properly and have a quality sounding stereo without breaking the bank.

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After the DMM method, you can use your ears and play with the gain until you find a good spot.

I would not waste money on an amplifier for rear soeakers. Those won't help the sound quality in your car.

It's my personnal taste, I don't like when the music comes form the back.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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After the DMM method, you can use your ears and play with the gain until you find a good spot.

I would not waste money on an amplifier for rear soeakers. Those won't help the sound quality in your car.

It's my personnal taste, I don't like when the music comes form the back.

Main reason for that amp was to be able to run those speakers through a HPF, currently they are getting the full spectrum and I can hear them distort at high volumes. I am going to try playing with the EQ and readjusting my gains in the mean time.

Has anyone heard of people renting their DD1 out via shipping? Like the renter could send paypal money for shipping both ways, and include extra for the rental fee..could even send like $100 total as collateral and then the tool owner sends a bit back when he receives his DD1

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