maxmodder Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Posted August 23, 2014 Second battery may help, still got your stock amp? 1000watts should be OK on a stock system, bad ground maybe? Yes, the stock amp is still part of the system. The LC7i is hooked up properly post amp. Sure, I could have made a custom harness off the radio and bypassed the factory amp completely, but it is needed for some functions of the factory IMID and because I'm tapping into full range signals, I doubt a straight LOC will make any difference. I'll recheck the grounds but all connections are made to bare metal on the chassis. There's no clipping, probably just need more power. Amps do not go into protect mode. I'm going to try a 3.5mm to RCA adapter on my mp3 player, plug directly into amp, and see how it sounds off of that.
juan777 Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 Second battery may help, still got your stock amp? 1000watts should be OK on a stock system, bad ground maybe? Yes, the stock amp is still part of the system. The LC7i is hooked up properly post amp. Sure, I could have made a custom harness off the radio and bypassed the factory amp completely, but it is needed for some functions of the factory IMID and because I'm tapping into full range signals, I doubt a straight LOC will make any difference. I'll recheck the grounds but all connections are made to bare metal on the chassis. There's no clipping, probably just need more power. Amps do not go into protect mode. I'm going to try a 3.5mm to RCA adapter on my mp3 player, plug directly into amp, and see how it sounds off of that. Try that and get back to us The L@zy Hoe 2005 Chevy Tahoe 2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids 4 10 midrange 4 6.5 midwoofers 4 Tweeters 6 Supertweeters 2 Lithium 80AH Batteries 24K Watts 4 Custom 18s Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works The Build Log Like Loud Bass? Click Here! On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said: See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on. On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said: I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!
MrSkippyJ Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 I love the guy up there that calls a tool a magical box... anyway OP it sounds like you set everything so it will be safe, especially since you used a 3/4 volume setting on your head unit. There are a couple possibilities here that might be causing your disappointment. 1. You have everything tuned correctly and the equipment just doesn't do what you had hoped it would. You have some nice equipment though, so this possibility really depends on what your expectations are. 2. Since you didn't use the best tools to set all your gains, you may have set everything up to under perform. Best thing for you to do is to get your hands on some proper tools and make sure everything is set correctly. Yes, the DD-1 will do this and it's easy to use. A quality O-scope can do the job just as well, it's just a bit more difficult to use. You don't need an expensive o-scope to do this, a quality hand held one will work just fine. As far as the extra battery goes, I would hold off on that until you know everything is set correctly. 1400 watts isn't really that bad on stock electrical. An extra battery may help, but it also may not be needed. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
maxmodder Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Posted August 23, 2014 I love the guy up there that calls a tool a magical box... anyway OP it sounds like you set everything so it will be safe, especially since you used a 3/4 volume setting on your head unit. There are a couple possibilities here that might be causing your disappointment. 1. You have everything tuned correctly and the equipment just doesn't do what you had hoped it would. You have some nice equipment though, so this possibility really depends on what your expectations are. 2. Since you didn't use the best tools to set all your gains, you may have set everything up to under perform. Best thing for you to do is to get your hands on some proper tools and make sure everything is set correctly. Yes, the DD-1 will do this and it's easy to use. A quality O-scope can do the job just as well, it's just a bit more difficult to use. You don't need an expensive o-scope to do this, a quality hand held one will work just fine. As far as the extra battery goes, I would hold off on that until you know everything is set correctly. 1400 watts isn't really that bad on stock electrical. An extra battery may help, but it also may not be needed. Well, I will say that I have been in cars that have had the 1000/1 and 12W7 setup and it hit much harder than mine. I realized that several factors go into this. Could the way the alternators function with the ECU on these new accords be the issue? The new accord is setup with the ELD (Electronic Load Detector) gathering data from the ECU and the engine to figure out when the alternator needs to increase the charging voltage (14.4-14.6) or run in standard, non-high output mode, (13.2-13.6) be the main culprit. Maybe just bypassing the ELD is all that is needed? Unfortunately no one has figured out how to do it yet on the 2013+ model.
gr8handogoatness Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 Voltage drop is certainly something that I suspect to be causing problems. Also your box may not be built to get the results you want. Placement of said box and direction it faces will greatly change the way it sounds in a trunk. Find an oscilloscope to set your gains, or get a dd-1, and set them right. The guys who get butt hurt about setting gains and talk crap on the dd-1 are idiots, don't worry about them. Good luck
hispls Posted August 23, 2014 Report Posted August 23, 2014 I'm not going to bother explaining my philosophy on gain setting because it's not only like shoveling shit against the tide on a board who's owner sells a "gain setting" device, but out of courtesy to the "host", I've said my piece on the issue elsewhere, and it's really been beaten to death on every audio board on the internet, I'd try removing the "accubass" device and do some testing without it. I'd also suggest that your box is about 2/3 the size it ought to be for any really impressive output. Pictures of the box and specifically it's position in the vehicle may be very revealing.
maxmodder Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Posted August 23, 2014 Seeing as how the manufacturer of my equipment (JL audio) has nothing but good things to say about the dd-1, I have no issues setting the gains using a dd-1. Here's the review: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/124906-jl-audio-tests-the-smd-dd-1/ Also, what is the correct procedure for determining if a factory signal is full range or not? Any videos of how to do this? I know JL builds their box specs small, but what size would you recommend and tuned to what frequency? Box is tuned to: 36.7Hz, F3: 31.5Hz and the dimensions are 22.75" x 15.5" x 15.5. Can you provide exact box dimensions for what you have in mind? I ran out of one color of carpet, but there is certainly room in the trunk to go bigger. Plenty of room to put in a 2nd 12w7 and add another 1000/1 if it comes down to it.
Ritch40 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 *SIGH* You're on a forum belonging to a guy who sells a magical gain setting black-box. You will get NO approval of any other gain setting method here. Really I don't know why you're looking for validation here anyway, if it sounds good, it is good... if you're having trouble specify and you may get help. Steve himself has said learn how to become proficient with an oscope and learn the ins and outs of that before getting a DD1.
Noel989 Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 Seeing as how the manufacturer of my equipment (JL audio) has nothing but good things to say about the dd-1, I have no issues setting the gains using a dd-1. Here's the review: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/124906-jl-audio-tests-the-smd-dd-1/ Also, what is the correct procedure for determining if a factory signal is full range or not? Any videos of how to do this? I know JL builds their box specs small, but what size would you recommend and tuned to what frequency? Box is tuned to: 36.7Hz, F3: 31.5Hz and the dimensions are 22.75" x 15.5" x 15.5. Can you provide exact box dimensions for what you have in mind? I ran out of one color of carpet, but there is certainly room in the trunk to go bigger. Plenty of room to put in a 2nd 12w7 and add another 1000/1 if it comes down to it. Your blocking a lot of the pressure Your not letting the pressure get into the cabin Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/
hoit Posted August 24, 2014 Report Posted August 24, 2014 I'd point the enclosure in to the cabin. .. already sealed of. .. :-/ 2007 Chevy Aveo Ls sedan 2 Sundown Xv2 on scv4k @ .5 ohm 2 pair RE XXX 6.5 components on sax200.4 @ 2 ohm Big Three, Three runs 1/0 power from front to back, 1 ground front to back Two runs ground from rear bank to chassis XS power d3100 upfront, 3 Odyssey 2150s in bank Singer 220 amp alt
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