dolarbilz Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Just build the wicked one..your set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WadeTustian Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Do you mean making a 4th order and substituting the vented side with a radiator? Or putting the radiators on the sealed side, which would sort of turn it into a 6th order. Edit: I actually don't know if anyone has attempted doing either of those actually. I've seen some nutty enclosures designs..... substituting a port for pr. just trying to find info on it really, not much out there 2007 Mazda 3 Sedan Pioneer 80-prsB2 Zero.7 2 15s 4inch coil psi recones temp til my subs are reconedFocal P165-v15Audison voce quattro fully activeOnly gonna get louder 146.1 at 38hz 138.x at 24hzBuild log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/191444-mazda-3-sedan-sql-build-audisonfocalb2aa/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Do you mean making a 4th order and substituting the vented side with a radiator? Or putting the radiators on the sealed side, which would sort of turn it into a 6th order. Edit: I actually don't know if anyone has attempted doing either of those actually. I've seen some nutty enclosures designs..... substituting a port for pr. just trying to find info on it really, not much out there Yes you could do it as long as the passive drones and subwoofers are together. For example,a simple 4th order bandpass enclosure made for 4 12" subwoofers,with one drone and driver on each side symmetrically. Honestly though,it is a PITA to get right because your passive drone can completely throw off tuning and output and cause unwanted frequency dips at certain frequencies. Im sure there are software's that can calculate drone parameters for building 4th order passive bandpass enclosure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 no port noise is the main goal. How about proper port area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 I think it's doable. But two 12" PRs ain't gonna cut it. You want at least double the Vd in your PRs as you have in your powered drivers. Maybe a single 18 PR, or a pair of 15's. Gonna take some design work. I loved my PR setup, though it wasn't a bandpass. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 With all the work you'd go through building something like that just to get "no port noise" why not just go sealed with a lot of cone area? My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 With all the work you'd go through building something like that just to get "no port noise" why not just go sealed with a lot of cone area? It's not the same. And it's really not that much extra work. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrd6 Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 What's not the same? The work I'm referring to is for design, tuning, and rebuild. If the goal really just is to avoid port noise entirely, I stand by my statement that regular sealed would be the way to go, it is easier...I mean, that is assuming a properly designed vented is out lol. A sealed box for 2 15s or 18s is going to work at least as well as the PR bandpass idea. Don't get me wrong, the idea is very cool. But knowing Wade personally, I don't think its really worth the effort for the chance to build another fail box :/ My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 What tune are we going for here ??? Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 Sound isn't the same. IMO, a PR box is easier than any ported. As long as the initial design is good, which is simple, anything after that can be adjusted basically. For PRs, all you need to worry about is Vd. If you have enough, you're good. Tuning is simple and adjustable. Airspace on each side is the only tough part really. I'd rather see a regular bass reflex with PRs than sealed. And shoot, I am confident I can help him design that easily, as long as he has enough space. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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