Hotdog Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 So I have been doing some research on how to properly set up a good SQ setup. I am not talking about national championship SQ but in the SQ category and not in SQL. for reference I have a blank canvas right now other then replacing the stock radio with an Alpine CDA-9887. I plane on running separate amps for right side,left side components (bi-amping). I will also be running a sub amp and only looking at doing maybe 1 10" for low end extension. Thoughts that I have are. get kick pods that they make for the 2004 F150 like this. Then a good quality 8" for the door. I know with SQ sometime less is more when it comes to speakers for time alignment reasons. I still have a couple concerns which are the following. 1. With having components in kick pods I would be concerned with the stage being lower then I want. Would I be better off going with a good set of components in the door and dedicating a mid-bass driver only for the kick pods? 2. When searching for a mid-bass only driver my thoughts were a speaker that is 2 ohm so I can optimize the power of the amp to the mid-bass driver. Now am i thinking correctly on this assumption? When looking for a Mid-bass only driver what parameters should I be looking for? (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764
bcbrassard Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 From my research and good advice from SQ guys here I believe your kick panel should be your midbass and leave your door for midrange and highs. Or A pillar. A 8" midbass in the kicker panel would be sweet. My son has Q-logics and I am going to fiber glass them for 8" drivers. Then 5 1/4 comps in the dash with 8" subs under the seat of a 91 ext cab chevy. Should sound nice when we finish. Others with great advice will chime in for help.
OrionStang Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 Might want to try and keep the tweet and midrange close together as possible, like high on the door, or even both in the pillars. Midbass down low, either in the door or kick (might have to try both locations to see what sounds better) SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Hotdog Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Posted September 23, 2014 Something like this would be sweet but looking to stay factory looking so everything can be returned to stock. I guess it could be done if I was to buy a second set of a-pillars (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764
Krakin Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
Hotdog Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy. so I am better off having them in the doors and midbass in the kick as I suspected. (NEW) 2004 F-150 Build Log -->http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192208-hotdogs-f-150-build-log/ 2003 Mercury Mountaineer Build Log --> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/114380-hotdogs-2003-mountaineer-build-log-20-removed/page__gopid__1602379#entry1602379 2008 Equinox Build Log --> http://www.stevemead...g/#entry1475764
bcbrassard Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 I have been told that midbass in the kick panels wont cause rattles like in the doors. I agree with keeping midrange and highs together closely and up high in the sound stage.
michigancapri92 Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 i have had good luck with the midbass in my doors, lots of sound deadner and made the door sealed and solid. One thing that i have noticed with having your midbass in the kicks is that the sound seems very right in your face, and to compensate for that you need to do alot of eqing and time align, for me what i have listened to the impact and dynamics just aren't there, But thats just with vehicles i have heard i have never actually had midbass in my kicks. Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED
OrionStang Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy. Depends on how they're facing, though. Right? SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread
Krakin Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 If you put your mid-range or tweeter in a tighter corner the spatial loading screws with the frequency response like crazy.Depends on how they're facing, though. Right? Like everything when dealing with spatial loading, or more commonly known here as just loading, it is frequency dependent on when your going to get more or less of a gain in dB. When looking at direction, it is hard for a speaker to produce the same of-axis response as a on-axis response. There are however optimal size speakers for given frequencies for the most optimal off-axis response. I believe that it goes tweeters:1-inch midrange:6 to 6.5-inch midbass: 10-inch, woofer:12/15-inch and for subwoofer I think anything 12-18 is close to the same. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.