islandpride684 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 my stinger meter is ok for now i just need a read out, the vm1 is nice but I'm not used to very tiny numbers to squint your eyes to see them. i got terrible vision and i don't have to squint. Just sayin' besides, once you have owned one, it's not even the numbers you end up paying attention to but the position of the LED. as far as the price is concerned. It's $79.99 and i have a coupon code that brings it down another $10. I also have a long running deal where if you send me your current volt meter, working or not, no matter how cheap, you get a $25.00 discount. Honestly, i don't know why i waste my time defending the product because TBH if it was a buck, someone would complain it wasn't .50 cents. But it is clearly a superior volt meter with superior quality, made in the USA with the best componants and the best customer service before and after the sale you can ask for. Besides, who wants a volt meter you have to calibrate? Isn't your volt meter supposed to tell YOU the voltage? You aren't supposed to tell IT. All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meade916 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i would like to add one thing. If you have a system that has very little draw and not really heavy demand on your electrical system, a standard digital meter (that you don't calibrate) is probably pretty good. I don't hate em. But if you have a system that pulls hard, especially during dynamic, hard hitting songs, you want speed and accuracy. Not some meter that has such a slow sampling rate that the electrical has dropped and recovered two or 3 times before it even attempts to react. By the time it does, it's already wrong. Basically putting it in a stage of confusion. If your volt meter is confused, so are you. All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i would like to add one thing. If you have a system that has very little draw and not really heavy demand on your electrical system, a standard digital meter (that you don't calibrate) is probably pretty good. I don't hate em. But if you have a system that pulls hard, especially during dynamic, hard hitting songs, you want speed and accuracy. Not some meter that has such a slow sampling rate that the electrical has dropped and recovered two or 3 times before it even attempts to react. By the time it does, it's already wrong. Basically putting it in a stage of confusion. If your volt meter is confused, so are you. So in other words, if my sub amp is a true 2.5k RMS and my electrical system is beefed up, the digital meters will be much too slow to give an accurate reading? I mean, a voltage meter is something you buy once so I can't say the VM-1 isn't worth the money, just trying to deal with first things first lol. So if I send you the POS XScorpion, lol, that yields a discount? That is a price I can probably afford and all research tells me they are the best meters on the market. Also, one of the only meters that are big enough to cover the hole I made for this stupid meter :/ How do I go about doing the trade in deal? I put the DMM on the amps power inputs and as it was not really steady, was MUCH steadier than the digital meter (DMM is analog). Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 This Hifonics is going bye-bye very soon and being replaced with a good, 2.5k so I don't think this meter is going to be up to the task. The deal you mentioned puts your VM-1 within my budget and that would be cool! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I see now. They read right about the same voltage, the VM-1 just reads it much faster... Also looks pretty cool in the process and probably not too hard to read once you see where each number is. It would become second nature where your voltage is after a while. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i think youre focusing waayyyy to much on the meter. you have to see what is causing your issues. go through your electrical and try to get it better. if even your scorpion meter is jumping up and down way too much then you have to absolutely strengthen your electrical system 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 i think youre focusing waayyyy to much on the meter. you have to see what is causing your issues. go through your electrical and try to get it better. if even your scorpion meter is jumping up and down way too much then you have to absolutely strengthen your electrical system Working on that now. Wiring is all finally good, now just to get some more amp hours and a better alternator. Would still love a VM-1 though and as they're worth the money, just is not in my budget being so close to the holidays. With $35 off, I can probably make it happen though Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Chambers Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Hey Steve, So if I was to buy the SMD Triple Play Combo Pack and send you 3 meters I would get $75 off? Where do I send it too? as far as the price is concerned. It's $79.99 and i have a coupon code that brings it down another $10. I also have a long running deal where if you send me your current volt meter, working or not, no matter how cheap, you get a $25.00 discount. Honestly, i don't know why i waste my time defending the product because TBH if it was a buck, someone would complain it wasn't .50 cents. Im not complaining. Just spending a LOT of money on my truck. Rebuilt Motor Rebuilt Transmission. Lower -> 3" Lift kit ( all new suspension ) New Rims and Tires. Amp, Speakers, radio and Christmas is coming. I don't even have the radio or speakers hooked up yet.. and Im here looking at the big 3 upgrade. So yea. Im trying to stretch my dollars HU: Pioneer DMH-Z5350BT Mids & Highs: ML280.3, ML700.3, ML1800.3 Mille Legend Series 3 way Lows: x3 JL Audio 12TW3 powered by JL Audio RD1500/1 Cable: x2 Skyhigh 0 Gage OFC kits. Skyhigh 8 gage & 16 gage OFC speaker cable Sound Deadener: 121 sq feet of Skyhigh 120milDSP: AudioControl DM 810 Project Build Log Click here: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee SQ Build to see the build progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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