Aj11 Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 no experience with plexi but from all the bills I followed I have seen the kids pre drill the holes (you need to go slow and.keep changing the bit. the plexi kills the bit and when it gets hot it melts the plexi) there's also a glue for it. most paint the corners to cover the glue and screws. again no expert here, by any means. just sharing what I've seen. 1/2" should be ok for smaller watt subs, but having no bracing.....that scares me. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 You don't need to change the bit the bit needs to cool if you're doing it slow enough it's not much of an issue by slow means slow. When you think it's slow enough go slower. There is a special adhesive used to bond the acrylic and plexi edges that dries clear if you put it on messy it turns white and looks like ass. In reality the plexi boxes I've seen don't use many screws if any especially at this size. Gately audio was the first big name in plexi builds in not sure if they are still in business but they did some amazing work THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosper506 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Hopefully if everything works out I won't use a single screw. The cement I ordered is coming in today. Haven't worked with it before so I'm not 100% if it'll hold everything all on its own. And I think I should get some epoxy to put on the inner edges?? We'll see when I test it out later today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 If you haven't already, I'd plan on a window brace inside the box made of plexi for better rigidity. Good luck. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 send a message to this member http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/76414-soccerballzs/ I know he took a class on working with plexi glass we discussed building a plexi wall, the part that killed the idea was the fact that thick enough plexi was $40 a foot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 Yeah, you just have to go sloooooowwwwwwww with plexi. Pretty frustrating. Other than that, that adhesive you mentioned should be good. Using 1/2" I would brace if possible. If you would have used 3/4" I don't think bracing would have been necessary, but another window brace shouldn't be too bad and would actually look pretty cool in there. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 plexi bracing you say?? http://damoreengineering.com/collections/junk-yard/products/inline-fuse-holder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhunt94 Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 plexi bracing you say?? http://damoreengineering.com/collections/junk-yard/products/inline-fuse-holder Dang it Gunnem! you beat me to it. To OP if you can, those would probably be one of the best options for bracing a plexi box while still looking good. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 I dont know if you could drill them out and run leds inside and they still work as good bracing but if you could thatd be awesome led lit bracing inside a plexi box spank ass good time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosper506 Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 those rods are sick! i looked into them when i built my mustang's box, but decided against it. ive got some very cool ideas regarding them, but i dont know if it will work. we'll find out soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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