dolarbilz Posted May 7, 2015 Report Posted May 7, 2015 If me I would do two 6.5 per front door. A 3" or 4" mid with tweeter in A-pillars all active.in the rear door run a nice set coax on a switch so when you have or have no people you can turn it on or off to your preference
scooter99 Posted May 7, 2015 Author Report Posted May 7, 2015 That's a great idea, and I'd love to do that. However, Ampere doesn't have a 3 or 4" mid range, and I'm running all Ampere stuff. Also I've already pre ordered 4 sets of comps. I'll look into it and see if I can make something work. I do like the thought of the mid range up there. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
Skullz Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 I would not do odd numbers of components in either the front or rear, if you have 4 sets then run 2 and 2 and keep the impedance the same from front to rear. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2
scooter99 Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 No either way, they'll be hooked up 2 sets per channel (4 per channel) so they'll all be the same impedance, but there won't be any separation if I go 3 up front and 1 in the rear. They'll all be the same volume, impedance etc. I may just go 2 per door all the way around. I'll do some more thinking and come up with something. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions everyone. Would love to fit the DC M38's and 2 of the 6.5's in the front doors, but I think that would be a massive undertaking shoehorning those 8's in there!! Then I could put the tweets in the pillars too. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
ToNasty Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 Keep it simple. 2 in each door. Done. I know how you think but even now I'll say you're thinking to much ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers
dolarbilz Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 That's a great idea, and I'd love to do that. However, Ampere doesn't have a 3 or 4" mid range, and I'm running all Ampere stuff. Also I've already pre ordered 4 sets of comps. I'll look into it and see if I can make something work. I do like the thought of the mid range up there. Tell Andrew get some midrange lol.
john253a Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 Run active as your were planing With you h/u supplying 3 set of rca front rear and sub Get another 150.4 and 6.5 comps Drop 3 in front door and 1 in kicks Parell 2 mids per ch @ 2ohm final giving you 125rms per mid First 150.4 used up on all 8x 6.5" Second drop all 4 tweeters on 1 ch series/parell @4 ohm final 37rms each, that's ch1&2 used on second amp, so you still have stero And get a 5th set, run them as stanard comp's through the supplied crossovers of ch3/4 of second amp, Done. You now have full front/ rear left and right control Now the 8's personal I don't think you really need them but, if you must run them, idd, want to run the specs as the .75net recomend may not give you the reaponce your after forTight accurate lowmid, idd susgest crossing them at around 125-150hz, Normaly Idd susgest closer to 250-300, but thoes 6.5 will be awsom down to 125hz on that power as long as you can eq them correctly If you were running a different amp for the mids I would have stuck with 4 set, 3 front and 1 rear running 1.33ohm (just with your amp I wouldn't go that low) front and 4 ohm rear or even a 8/10"mid up front I use a t1000.4 for the last setup I did like that with 3x6.5 and 1x8 in the front doors (was a 2 door truck with no subs)
scooter99 Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 That's a great idea, and I'd love to do that. However, Ampere doesn't have a 3 or 4" mid range, and I'm running all Ampere stuff. Also I've already pre ordered 4 sets of comps. I'll look into it and see if I can make something work. I do like the thought of the mid range up there. Tell Andrew get some midrange lol. He's slowly rolling out some stuff. Just released a picture of a nice little processor that's in the works. Not so sure about the remote, but could be interesting. Also has some deadener that just dropped too. Kyle of course has some coming, so we'll wait to see what he says. But yes a nice 3 or 4 inch mid range would be sweet! Run active as your were planing With you h/u supplying 3 set of rca front rear and sub Get another 150.4 and 6.5 comps Drop 3 in front door and 1 in kicks Parell 2 mids per ch @ 2ohm final giving you 125rms per mid First 150.4 used up on all 8x 6.5" Second drop all 4 tweeters on 1 ch series/parell @4 ohm final 37rms each, that's ch1&2 used on second amp, so you still have stero And get a 5th set, run them as stanard comp's through the supplied crossovers of ch3/4 of second amp, Done. You now have full front/ rear left and right control Now the 8's personal I don't think you really need them but, if you must run them, idd, want to run the specs as the .75net recomend may not give you the reaponce your after forTight accurate lowmid, idd susgest crossing them at around 125-150hz, Normaly Idd susgest closer to 250-300, but thoes 6.5 will be awsom down to 125hz on that power as long as you can eq them correctly If you were running a different amp for the mids I would have stuck with 4 set, 3 front and 1 rear running 1.33ohm (just with your amp I wouldn't go that low) front and 4 ohm rear or even a 8/10"mid up front I use a t1000.4 for the last setup I did like that with 3x6.5 and 1x8 in the front doors (was a 2 door truck with no subs) I'm not running a head unit. All tablet as my source unit. As far as the rest of this, I'll have to read it a few times to get the gist of it. I don't really want to put anything in the kicks though. Not closed off to it, but just not my preference. I already have the 4 sets of comps, and the pair of 8's also. I have already kicked around just getting a second 150.4 anyway, and running a 5th set of comps. But when I was on the way home last night, I was looking at my doors, and I could feasibly fit 3 in the door that would not be impeded by the seat. If I go any more, I'll be behind the seat when the door is closed and I'm sure it'll be reflection city like that. I don't open up the doors and demo so for the most part, I'll be aiming for a nice clean sound while driving. At this point I'm still leaning to just going with a set per door and run one amp. If I want to change it up later I'll run the 5th set and redo the doors and add the second amp. As far as the 8's go, I'm planning to run them sealed not ported and the recommended air space for that is .35 per. That's not even .75 cubes for both. I should get a pretty tight response from them. I had the idea of using them as just subs and ditching the 15's. Building an enclosure out of the rear seat, and still having it functional as a seat, but we're talking about a massive undertaking and I'm not so sure comfort is going to be obtainable. I don't have enough room to just raise the seat and build an enclosure under it. There's a rather large hump the width of the seat under it. So if I was going to raise the seat, I'd have to raise it a good 6 to 7 inches, and that's just not realistic. But if I did 4 8's, I'd nix the 15's and just keep the one set per door on the mids and highs. So that's where I'm at. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
john253a Posted May 8, 2015 Report Posted May 8, 2015 Running a tablet will not give you left/right so to maintain 2ohm you'll be unable to do 3 in front door unless you lose the the fader option. Even then trying to gain match will be a pain so I wouldn't go that route unless you use a second 150.4 Idd want 1 supply per door per speaker size But you'll still have a spair ch, to use latter if needed
scooter99 Posted May 8, 2015 Author Report Posted May 8, 2015 I'm running HDMI from the tablet into a digital converter. Gives me left and right analog, HDMI out, and optical toslink out. I'm not using the 3.5mm jack. Not hard to gain match with the CC1 and DD1. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build
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