Triticum Agricolam Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I have had really good luck with Turnigy batteries from HobbyKing.com They have some good deals on chargers and lots of other stuff there too. Their main warehouse is in Hong Kong, but they have two in the US. If you ever get anything from them get it from the US warehouses if you can. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I have had really good luck with Turnigy batteries from HobbyKing.com They have some good deals on chargers and lots of other stuff there too. Their main warehouse is in Hong Kong, but they have two in the US. If you ever get anything from them get it from the US warehouses if you can. I'll second that, it's Only place I buy my lipo's from. Never once had a dead batt or any issues with the product shipping times can suck though. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I like the ofna for gas in the dirt and mugen seiki for the street in 1/8 scale. EDIT: Stock up on breakables cause you'll need them. When i was racing i had enough parts in my tool box to build atleast 2 cars with all the extra parts i needed in case i got boarded and did some damage. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Don't jump right into Lipo and I'd go with a 1s or a 2s In that truck or you'll make it not fun to drive. Also the faster you go the more stuff you will break. And trust me you will break stuff x2 on this, 3s will just make you car undriveable and you will break expensive stuff. 2s is more than enough unless you are just trying to drive in a really fast straight line. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I run 8s in my e-maxx...I run 8s in my e-maxx... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Don't jump right into Lipo and I'd go with a 1s or a 2s In that truck or you'll make it not fun to drive. Also the faster you go the more stuff you will break. And trust me you will break stuff Any particular reason not to just straight to LiPO? I can understand not going straight to 3s, but not really not going straight to LiPO over Nickel. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Don't jump right into Lipo and I'd go with a 1s or a 2s In that truck or you'll make it not fun to drive. Also the faster you go the more stuff you will break. And trust me you will break stuff Any particular reason not to just straight to LiPO? I can understand not going straight to 3s, but not really not going straight to LiPO over Nickel. Nickel sucks, go lipo. Check out hobby king.com as others have said for cheep lipo batteries and chargers. Safety concerns are why broke said not to go straight to lipo I'm sure. They need to be stored and charged in a fireproof container. Just read up on lipo safety first. I had a 1/36 scale battery explode by overcharging it. It was in the car. (you should never charge a battery while in the car, whoops) The tiny lipo battery for the 1/36 car blew the car apart and flaming battery chunks flew across my apartment like napalm. Lithium fires burn with fury. Be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebringR/T Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Don't jump right into Lipo and I'd go with a 1s or a 2s In that truck or you'll make it not fun to drive. Also the faster you go the more stuff you will break. And trust me you will break stuff Any particular reason not to just straight to LiPO? I can understand not going straight to 3s, but not really not going straight to LiPO over Nickel. Nickel sucks, go lipo. Check out hobby king.com as others have said for cheep lipo batteries and chargers. Safety concerns are why broke said not to go straight to lipo I'm sure. They need to be stored and charged in a fireproof container. Just read up on lipo safety first. I had a 1/36 scale battery explode by overcharging it. It was in the car. (you should never charge a battery while in the car, whoops) The tiny lipo battery for the 1/36 car blew the car apart and flaming battery chunks flew across my apartment like napalm. Lithium fires burn with fury. Be safe. Good info. Thanks! Anxious to order my truck and start playing. Team Droppin' Hz Tuxedo Black Metallic 2010 Ford Taurus Limited Build Log "Financial Mistake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 If i could afford to get back into it i would get one of these for old times sake having had one many many years ago. http://www.jpspro.com/photogallery/New%20Chassis%20Package%20Deals.jpg 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 This is the cheapest way to get into the hobby: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade-16/ Tons of guys are getting out of the hobby and sell their stuff super cheap with extra parts for the car, battery chargers and a bunch of tools. That's where I bought my RC8.2E buggy and the guy said he used it. When I got it, it looked like a shelf queen, not one scratch and he upgraded a ton of parts to aluminum and gave me the parts he replaced so I had extras. It was an amazing deal compared to buying it all brand new. 1S LiPo is for the small scale stuff, like 1/24 and smaller. 2S LiPo is for 1/10 scale stuff... some 1/10 scale stuff can run 3S, but I highly recommend staying away from 3S on 1/10 scale. 4S LiPo is entry level for 1/8 scale stuff, you can run 6S but that's when things get hot and you start to break stuff with ease. 8S is when you get into 1/5 scale stuff, but most people that run 1/5 scale will actually still run 4S. When looking for a battery charger for these... I wouldn't recommend anything more than a 10A charger to make your batteries last longer... In general, for something like a 5000MAh battery, it's safe to charge at 5A (1S) with a maximum safe charging rate of 10A (2S). It's 1A per 1000MAh to get (1S) and 2A per 1000MAh to get (2S), so if you had a 10,000MAh battery, you could charge it normally at 10A (1S) all the way to 20A (2S). 2S charging causes a quicker degradation of the cells. I'd recommend something like the Duratrax Onyx 235 and buy some banana plug to HXT connectors to charge those Turnigy batteries. If you really want to go all out with your charger and get something that can charge at 20A, i'd get a iCharger 206B with a Mean Well SP-240-12 power supply. That's what I had... and it was way too much for my needs lol LiFePO4 batteries are the newest on the market. They have a higher discharge rate for when you really want to crank out the power... the problem with those are... They are bigger than LiPo batteries at the same MAh, so they are not really a good fit in the smaller scale R/C's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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