No midbass with new speakers

[reedal]

How do you turn off the crossovers on he q490? I'd like to use my headunit as I can fine tune the filters better and set the slope to what I want...which I have no idea what it should be set at though.

Via the switches and potentiometers on it.

both HPF turned all of the way counter clockwise.

Both LPF turned all of the way clockwise.

And the two switches that say "X-OVER" should be set in the middle to full (which should really be the only thing allowing full-pass, but I like to set the potentiometers up as well).

I do not recommend bass boost at all.

The "Mode" switch, I would have set to whichever channels you have the components on.

[reedal]

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

Where are you putting the tweets and mids? Stock locations?

Yeah, had to fabricate the tweeter housing a bit but I got it to work

My set sounded better as far as midbass with the mid in a sealed door pod I made. But it lacked in loudness overall when playing full tilt. Midbass was good, not so much midrange. Opened up the pod into the door, lost a little midbass, gained in midrange, but overall not enough to my liking still. In my opinion, if you're planning on buying anything else for your system except for deadener right now, then don't. Buy the deadener, do your doors, if you have some $$ to drop on closed cell foam and MLV WITH the deadener to fully treat your doors, do it. Someone who I feel would be great to help you out with how much you need to use per a door would be bcbrassard.

as far as loud output goes, sometimes the stock location isn't the best for after market speakers. I don't feel as if SoundQubed speakers are good at all in stock location, so if you're up to fabrication, making your own door pods with the mids and highs aimed where you want them to be so they're loudest, that would be best in my opinion.

[Irocthestreetz]

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

Where are you putting the tweets and mids? Stock locations?

Yeah, had to fabricate the tweeter housing a bit but I got it to work

My set sounded better as far as midbass with the mid in a sealed door pod I made. But it lacked in loudness overall when playing full tilt. Midbass was good, not so much midrange. Opened up the pod into the door, lost a little midbass, gained in midrange, but overall not enough to my liking still. In my opinion, if you're planning on buying anything else for your system except for deadener right now, then don't. Buy the deadener, do your doors, if you have some $$ to drop on closed cell foam and MLV WITH the deadener to fully treat your doors, do it. Someone who I feel would be great to help you out with how much you need to use per a door would be bcbrassard.

as far as loud output goes, sometimes the stock location isn't the best for after market speakers. I don't feel as if SoundQubed speakers are good at all in stock location, so if you're up to fabrication, making your own door pods with the mids and highs aimed where you want them to be so they're loudest, that would be best in my opinion.

Thank you for your help, i'd like to fabricate my own housing someday but I doubt I have the tools to do it. I'm just going work with what I got and get the best out of it as I can. Someday I'll fit a couple 6.5s and a 8 in the doors/kick panels. Now I'm not sure but I think my tweeters are in a pretty good spot the stock location is ear level and I have the tweeters angled towards the driver seat inside the housing. I'm thinking two 40sq feet car packs of q mat will largely cover the car, I also will be buying some rolls of secondskin butyl rope, what are good uses for the sludge spectrum? After the deadener I will be buying secondskin mlv to cover at least the front doors. Is there a good reason to do the trunk lid to or is it just a waste of material? Also do you feel like the 90 watts per channel was holding you back on overall volume? If deadening and sealing doesnt do the trick I've seen 120x4 watt amps maybe that along with speakers to handle the power will give me the volume I desire or is that 30 extra watts per channel a negligible difference?

[Skullz]

Chuck that set aside and buy a real comp set!

You could never get me to buy let alone take a free pair of comps from a company that started out selling subs. just my $.02

Most of those companies will never put any R&D into a speaker like they will a sub which happens to be the bread and butter of their sales, speakers just happen to be a filler for them.

[Knocker]

I don't think any amount of tuning (aside from making sure everything was in phase), larger speaker wire, or deadening will compensate for the fact that those door speakers probably don't reproduce bass frequencies very well. The passive crossovers that came with the set would most likely be a high-pass for the tweeters and a low-pass for the midrange. Therefore you would still need to use the high-pass on the amp to prevent the mids from bottoming out. The stock system probably had good midbass because the midrange was technically a woofer and designed to reproduce those lower frequencies without the aid of a sub. Maybe it's time for beefier door speakers.

[Irocthestreetz]

Yeah im just trying get what I can from what I got. I'm thinking when my deadening is all done about daisy chaining a second q4-90 and I could just pump these till they blow while I save for new higher end components. But hopefully deadening the whole car and sealing the doors will get midbass and volume to a acceptable level.

[Irocthestreetz]

Also I'm hoping those pa's will do well in the rear for adding overall volume up front going have them crossed to play just midbass thru midrange.

[Irocthestreetz]

Found the problem, messaged soundqubed and found out the components are only good for 50 wrms, not 100wrms like I thought so I think I'm going go ahead and put the pa's on the front and the components mids to the rear.

[kirill007]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?

The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass.

The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers.

Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling.

What if his DD-1 or Oscope says he needs to turn the gains up?

What he is describing sounds a lot more like overpowering/wrong crossover frequency for the amount of power.

Crackling= usually means that the driver is at the end of it's travel.

I assure you, they can take the 90.4 gain set max clean to 1khz@-5dB, actively crossed at 63hz -24dB/oct. His settings are wrong, and by not guessing what his gain is set at with a tone he doesn't even know what it is, he will have a better experience. Ask me how I know. I have them. I did it. I changed to the PA's because the comps weren't keeping up in my opinion.

Found the problem, messaged soundqubed and found out the components are only good for 50 wrms, not 100wrms like I thought so I think I'm going go ahead and put the pa's on the front and the components mids to the rear.

@Reedal

Funny how you can assure me that when SQ can't assure it.

[bcbrassard]

Found the problem, messaged soundqubed and found out the components are only good for 50 wrms, not 100wrms like I thought so I think I'm going go ahead and put the pa's on the front and the components mids to the rear.

Good to find out what you have to work with. Usually a first step when pairing speakers to amp but none of which will help with midbass in the long run.