Scorpion0987654 Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Hello, so I have a build in mind for a passive radiator enclosure for the crescendo audio forte 15" I emailed psi audio asking them about what there opinion was and they suggested 2 15" radiators which makes perfect sense and they told me to go with 5.5-6.0 cu ft after the displacement of my subwoofer and both psi radiators and tuning can be as my preference to change by the mass added to the radiators but what im wondering is does anybody have any experience in making passive radiator boxes and does anyone have any suggestions for how I should build this or if you believe you have a better estimate for size of the box in the end im looking a as much sq I can get out of the system as possible for the price im not interested in a dofferent sub or different radiators just need some suggestionsHello, so I have a build in mind for a passive radiator enclosure for the crescendo audio forte 15" I emailed psi audio asking them about what there opinion was and they suggested 2 15" radiators which makes perfect sense and they told me to go with 5.5-6.0 cu ft after the displacement of my subwoofer and both psi radiators and tuning can be as my preference to change by the mass added to the radiators but what im wondering is does anybody have any experience in making passive radiator boxes and does anyone have any suggestions for how I should build this or if you believe you have a better estimate for size of the box in the end im looking a as much sq I can get out of the system as possible for the price im not interested in a dofferent sub or different radiators just need some suggestions For anyway to make this more sq based Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 gckless does, he's a member here. On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion0987654 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Sorry about the accidental double post there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 http://www.aespeakers.com/PRFAQ.php Thats a start to answer some of your questions. PRs are nice because you can get flatter response in a small-ish enclosure with no port noise. Go for it. Another benefit is that you can usually tune a bit lower. theres a bunch of online calculators...most of which are crap, I'd do a little more research and go with what PSI spec'd for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 You're looking at a very big enclosure to accomplish a flat frequency response ... What type of vehicle are we working with here ??? Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion0987654 Posted January 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 You're looking at a very big enclosure to accomplish a flat frequency response ... What type of vehicle are we working with here ??? Im working with either my 2000 Chrysler lhs it has 14 cubic ft of cargo space if I build the box in my trunk or I'll be using my brothers Volkswagen golf sportwagen 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 If you haven't started on your sound quality based system ... why are you worried about your sub bass stage first ??? That should be one of the last things installed ... if it actually needs one. Just saying Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202704-passive-radiators/ Seems like they are answering a lot of your questions in that thread. ^^what White Lightening said. Sound Quality comes from a balance of the overall system IMHO, which is 90% front stage and tunning of that front stage to integrate with your substage for good balance. PRs don't have a lot to do with the conversation, if you want good sound quality get a subwoofer driver that has a strong motor (BL factor) and T/S parameters that are favorable for your build. A flat frequency response is a good thing, PRs can have a flatter response then a ported enclosure so thats not a bad thing. Fact of the matter is if you want good sound quality out of your system I would want a substage that blends with my front stage to the point I don't know where the sub is and it is transparent to me, I can't locate where its coming from and it melts into a coherent "image" where highs/mids/lows all work together. Balance. Also SQ and SPL are distinct goals...and mean something very specific in the car audio world. So you may want to rephrase based on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 What has been said is all true about system SQ. To me, PRs sound like a good mix between traditional ports and sealed; you get the extra output, but it sounds so clean. Can't explain it really, it just has a different sound. There is a little higher group delay though, and the PRs are a little lossy, so you won't get the same output as a regular port, but it's a good trade off. Also, overloading a PR is much nastier than overloading a port. With a regular port, you will get some compression and noise, but with PRs, you're bottoming them out, leading to some scary noises, or stressing them with too much weight. Actually, an admin should probably merge these two threads (and this one: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202704-passive-radiators/). Based on the time you posted them it looks like either a botched first thread creation attempt or you revised what you wanted and posted two. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROLEXrifleman Posted January 12, 2016 Report Share Posted January 12, 2016 If you haven't started on your sound quality based system ... why are you worried about your sub bass stage first ??? Because 99% of people don't know what sq really is. They think sound quality is when your tweeters are louder than the bass and you used enough sound deadner on your license plate to stop it from hitting higher frequencies than your front stage Rolex you sicken me. Just let me finish my pie ~ Juice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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