ShadeTreeMechanic Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Install what you have now along with a volt meter. Start saving for an alt. The volt meter will help to keep you from operating beyond the alts capability. This will be hard on the rectifier and the volt meter will let you know when one of the diodes fries. I would bet you could go a whole year before this happens. Hopefully you can get a big alt before it leaves you stranded. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 You sure about that? My old system saw under 10v quite a few times and took it like a champ. And lol at thinking you have to spend $600+ for 2 batts, I paid $90 ea for 7 group 34 dekas gotta love real world testing lol On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Um...so....what? Lol I haven't found a HO alt for my car that's anywhere near being cheap....under $300. What would I need to run a 1kw? 120A? Lots of stuff here, lots of confusion lol thanks though! Did you look at US alternators or check any auto electric stores local to you? I'm lost as to why yall are telling him he needs an alt for a 1500w system, I'd run a decent agn or two and call it a day. But then again I'm not one who freaks the fuck out when voltage drops to 13.0 either. Because if you see under 13.6v, you are now using everything that alt can put out, and stressing it. Do that for long enough, you will kill it, and possibly create power problems in the cars system Edit: I say the thing about an alt dying ^^^^. From experience, my alt in my ford escape is a stock alt, don't know how big it is but it's probably 90a, tiny thing. Even with a big 3 upgrade I still dropped to battery power any time I went full tilt. Well I drove full tilt every time I was in the car. The alt got screwed up, now when I crank it, I can very easily drop to 9v. Why did this happen? Because my barely 1k watt amp was too much of a strain on the alt. It handled it for a while, but it wasn't meant to. So OP, if you want to save yourself the money down the road, of having to replace parts that break down, spend a decent amount now on something worthwhile, that should never have to be replaced. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I have had my t1500 and t400 on stock alts in both my f150 and my scion. I haven't had an alt die yet. As much as we like to overkill things here, it's not that crazy to run that amount of power on stock electrical. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland_Audio Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Get a couple XS D1200's, Plenty of juice for 1.5k and small enough to put anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'm lost as to why yall are telling him he needs an alt for a 1500w system, I'd run a decent agn or two and call it a day. But then again I'm not one who freaks the fuck out when voltage drops to 13.0 either. because its a 90a alternator which will be putting out around 60a at idle .. he wont even be near 13v try 9v.. been there done that with a stock 105a alternator. the amp alone will use up all the alternator. now add what the car needs to run my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I'm lost as to why yall are telling him he needs an alt for a 1500w system, I'd run a decent agn or two and call it a day. But then again I'm not one who freaks the fuck out when voltage drops to 13.0 either. because its a 90a alternator which will be putting out around 60a at idle .. he wont even be near 13v try 9v.. been there done that with a stock 105a alternator. the amp alone will use up all the alternator. now add what the car needs to run Let alone the minimal 20-40a a 4 channel could need at full tilt too. Just for the OP, yes stock alts can run things. Yes people do it. Yes, they have not failed in some situations. But just expect the chance of it dying in a year or two, the possibility is definitely there when trying to use more than what is available. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PinkFreud65 Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Whew! Lots of stuff! Thanks guys! I'm saving up for everything, just need to add some extra for an alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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