Broke_Audio_Addict Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 I'm aware they aren't a hard cutoff but it's not like you need to use a 48 dB or 24db slope for the crossover. Most likely I'll use a 6db or 12db slope for my system but that will be determined when I tune the system. A little eq'ing helps too as you stated to get the curve you want. But there's always a cost as you said. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 So you're saying that tuning at 20 or 50 doesn't make a difference in output below 80hz? As already stated, above 80 Hz.I hear so many times "I need to tune higher so I can get the higher bass". More than likely the system has a large peak in the output just above tuning so that all that is heard is the peak, which gives the idea that the upper bass is missing. The proof here would be that upper frequencies do not roll off based on tuning frequency. The correct idea would be to design a system that didn't have such a large peak in the response. This is what I was getting at, so people could just tune to 20hz it shouldn't have an effect on output at 50hz compared to tuning at 35hz right? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 This is what I was getting at, so people could just tune to 20hz it shouldn't have an effect on output at 50hz compared to tuning at 35hz right? Yeah within reason. If the example you gave 35 Hz is close enough to 50 Hz that you probably are going to see a difference vs a 20 Hz tuning. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 thanks for the replies Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted April 22, 2016 Report Share Posted April 22, 2016 Love this place. Love it when threads walk the path. Well done all. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 great read still!!! Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Bateman Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 Is it not true that our ears can begin to localize sounds somewhere around 80hz - 100hz? If that is true why would you ever want to have your sub covering frequencies up that high? I cross mine at 63hz typically. One way to get around this is to use an array of drivers at low frequencies. For instance, if you have four drivers covering the two octaves from 80-320hz, and those four drivers are in front *and* behind you, it's going to be difficult to localize where they're located. I am using this trick in my current build; I have the subs running all the way to 200hz and I have six midbasses total. The midbasses are under the seats *and* under the dash and they're time aligned. (Don't bother doing this if you can't EQ and time align them; all the midbasses need to arrive simultaneously and have the same response.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 With all of your testing ability, another fun project would be to build a nice flat enclosure (.707 Q) and look at impedance plots. Then using the impedance plots, compare output at the lowest and highest impedance frequencies. You could also do this with a driver in free air. Would be nice to show everyone that just because a driver has an impedance spike at Fs, you may not be providing as much power at that frequency, but that doesn't mean you are getting a big dip in the output. If you have a Fi driver, a nice free-air impedance plot would be cool too. Just so everyone can see the difference between DCR and impedance. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I just read this. Good stuff. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLHgn Posted April 11, 2017 Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Awesome post. Love learning things about box theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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