Kyblack76 Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 We just bought raw stock, and made ours. When you have over 75 connections, just for power and ground, they make it easier. Just the boards take up 18 connections, then other grounds, alt runs and shit. It can be a nightmare. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moh.vze.com Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 octopus vs DC Audio - Singer Alternators - Knukonceptz - XS Power - Hybrid Audio - Rockford Fosgate - Second Skin Audio - SMD - Sundown Audio - Elemental Designs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 After a certain amount of power, you'll want the most efficiency you can get out of your electrical system & swapping 0 guage for bus bars made quite a difference for me. My old 2/0 wires on the bank would actually get a bit warm with long demos or songs that clip heavy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFred Posted May 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 7 hours ago, slowfkncar said: After a certain amount of power, you'll want the most efficiency you can get out of your electrical system & swapping 0 guage for bus bars made quite a difference for me. My old 2/0 wires on the bank would actually get a bit warm with long demos or songs that clip heavy. Can you elaborate a little more on how bus bars are more efficient? I'll be running dual 370A alternators with 4 runs of positive and negative 2/0, and 6 G31 batts. Right now I'm leaning towards just running the wire, since the bars are expensive and seem like a PITA to get correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 47 minutes ago, RedFred said: Can you elaborate a little more on how bus bars are more efficient? I'll be running dual 370A alternators with 4 runs of positive and negative 2/0, and 6 G31 batts. Right now I'm leaning towards just running the wire, since the bars are expensive and seem like a PITA to get correct. You can run the wires, sure it will work. In my case my DC 10k could not pull off the bank from one side (space limitations didn't give me the option of tapping the amp off multiple terminals) my bank sat in a narrow chassis wall with only room on one side forcing all my connections on one side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 27, 2017 Report Share Posted May 27, 2017 The way that it is more efficient, is that the bars can carry more current than cable. You want to give your amp all of the current that it wants. When the current is restricted going to an amp then there is a voltage drop. If I had six g31s I would definitely do bars. You are wasting money on batteries if you don't get what you paid for out of them. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFred Posted May 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 And do you guys do anything to protect your bus bars? I'm really accident prone (hitting my ratchet to vehicle grounds while tightening positives, usually), and would hate to have my entire bus bar line up short out from a stupid mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 On 5/26/2017 at 10:07 PM, RedFred said: Can you elaborate a little more on how bus bars are more efficient? I'll be running dual 370A alternators with 4 runs of positive and negative 2/0, and 6 G31 batts. Right now I'm leaning towards just running the wire, since the bars are expensive and seem like a PITA to get correct. Amperage ratings are based on the temperature of the conductor (or in the case of insulated cable, the temp rating of the insulation). In my case, all my amps at rated load could theoretically flow around 700A. My bus bar at my battery bank is sized for 1000A at 30degC temperature rise. Since they would never see more than 700A, my bars wont increase in temperature as much. Also, since the cross section on the battery bus is larger than the cables leading to the amps, the bus bar has the least resistance. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 Amperage ratings are always at a specific voltage drop too. They don't tell you but some companies rate their cable at several volts dropped across the cable. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedFred Posted May 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2017 Okay so I'm sold on bus bars, but they look simple enough to make at home. Is there a distinct difference between this type: Where it's basically just one piece of metal or steel or whatever, and then I could put two wires to each bolt I guess. Or the expensive fancy bus bars like this: Where you have the bolt locations for the battery terminals, then you run the wires into the side everywhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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